Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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An introduction and a few questions 140-160

Hey,

Well I have been stopping in to read from the board for the past year and finally feel like I should post. I am a young Volvo owner going to be 20 in August, but am very excited about my green 1972 142S. We (shared ownership with my older brother, who luckily lets me drive it the majority of the time...especially now that he is looking into getting an 850 for when he graduates and enters in as a "young professional" and all that garbage) have had the car for about a year and a half and love it. Honestly I have not put much into it except for new engine mounts and a muffler with exhaust pipe.
However recently when I came back from school this spring, I have been having some overheating issues, that seem to randomly come and go. Though sometimes it seems like it just is warm weather and sitting still, this definitly was not happening last summer, thinking possible thermostat or valve problems, or the radiator. This all reached a head this past Sunday when driving home the car got up into the H on the thermostat, leaving me a nice walk home while the car cooled off, and when I came back later that night to see how much damaged had occurred, it began gushing water out of the side of the engine block. So things looked really grim and when I went off to work I was pretty sure that my Dad was going to have it towed to the junkyard (because it was parked in a farmer's field) However he saved it because he looked in the daylight and concluded that the water was pouring from the plug where the cord for the block heater enters into the engine. I have never used the heater and neither had the previous owner, but it may come in handy if I ever regulary drive this car in the winter, since Vermont gets chilly.
So after searching the internet, with my little knowledge of vintage car part sites, I was wondering if any of you had suggestions for where to find a block heater plug, which will hopefully solve the water lealage problem (of course things could be much worst). Also if any of you have ideas on what may have led to my overheating issues, I would appreciate it. I planning on draining and the radiator and making sure there are no clogs sometime this weekend. The radiator has overtime lossed about 20-30% of its metals fins for distributing heat...so it may be time to replace that, any suggestions on where to look for new or used parts? Also if anyone knows of good salvage yards in the Northeast, that would be great. Also if anyone has an idea for where i could get a new seat belt receptors for the front two seats, that would be great (the cable for the driverside broke and after that I do not trust the other either, but it works for now). Hopefully I did not crack the block or do any damage, and will be able to get many more years out of it. I feel bad making my first post a request for assitance, (a friend in need is a friend in deed) but any advice, suggestions or would be appreciated.


Thanks

Pete








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    An introduction and a few questions 140-160

    The freeze plug should be an easy thing to source... pretty standard item. You just gotta get the right size. Forget about the block heater for now... you can replace it later, or get one that just goes inline on one of the hoses (though those don't work as well). You say its a '72 142s... is that to say its carburetted? Most of US spec '72 cars would have been injected, and they almost always start fine in cold weather.

    After you get that freeze plug replaced, get a new thermostat. THats a cheap place to start, and usually cures the overheating problem. If it still overheats, then start looking into more expensive stuff such as a new/used radiator.

    These are some of the most easy cars to work on, and learn on. Especially if it is carburetted. Keep it around, and keep up with maintainance, and it won't let you down. Almost nothing that can't be fixed roadside with minimal tools...

    -Matt

    --
    -Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC








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      An introduction and a few questions 140-160

      Get a new core plug, ja!
      I think you ought to run some radiator flush a couple times through the system (per instructions) then refill with 50/50. If you still have issues take the radiator to a specialist and have them "rod" it out.
      Plan on replacing all the hoses soon (including heater hoses)! You can replace the thermostat at the same time.

      Mike!








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    An introduction and a few questions 140-160

    With minimum maintenance and expense, these cars can last indefinitely, as long as they are not rusted out. If the underbody is sound, and the suspension mounting points are solid, you can invest in a new radiator without worry. Along with the loss of fins in the radiator, you probably have significant internal buildup.
    You can readily find parts at all major discount auto parts stores. Purchase a Haynes manual and a set of open end wrenches (SAE), and you can learn a great deal about automobile engineering whil having a comfortable safe economical fun car to drive that looks like a brick.
    Short specific technical postings get the best answers.
    --
    '74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'








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      An introduction and a few questions 140-160

      Thanks for the responses and advice. The engine is a dual carb, which I from what I understand is a B20B, and I believe that it was first used in Europe and then brought over here. Anyways I am definitly looking forward to putting sometime in under the hood and keep learning more and more.

      Have a good weekend.

      Peter








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      An introduction and a few questions 140-160

      Welcome. I've got a '71 144S with twin Stromberg carburettors. The only real hassle is that the carburettor needles freeze up in winter when the engine (and thus air intake) is cold.

      I've also had the temperature problem, and it was due to a water leak that caused an air lock in the top water hose (once the reservoir was empty). I have to squeeze it once the engine is warm to get the air out, as the hose is higher than the radiator. And also have to hold the reservoir and it's hose higher than the radiator. Actually I lift the reservoir higher and lower a number of times, which helps the air through the thin tube. On mine the heat dispersing fins are also disintegrating, but the radiator is much larger than what is required. Try a flush before a replacement, and run water through the system with a garden hose (after removing thermostat).

      The thermostat failure mode is to overheat the engine, but this will happen every time the car has run for 5 or 10 minutes.

      The engine is all iron, so hopefully you have only blown a gasket. While open, perhaps fit hardened exhaust valves (or perhaps you want to first make sure the engine is still running).

      Have fun...








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        An introduction and a few questions 140-160

        Hey Pete, welcome to the message board. Ive also got a 72 142S (twin stromberg's) but im over in australia.

        This board is a great resource (as im sure you already know) - there are a lot of very helpful/knowledgeable people on here regularly. A year and a half ago i could barely tell the difference between the front and the back of a car and now i am servicing my car myself regularly (with a few prods in the right direction along the way).

        I had the same problem with overheating a few months ago and flushed out my radiator (just like Niel suggested). A lot of rust and junk came out and the temperature has stayed down ever since.

        Im getting my radiator re-cored on monday and ill replace the hoses at the same time - it gets pretty hot here so i dont want to take any chances.

        Anyway, good luck with the repairs.

        Cheers,
        Evan







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