No, this post isn't another one of those "WHY IS MY CAR OVERHEATING?" problems, but rather hopefully something that can help out people about to complain about such a situation.

If you are driving your Brick, and you suspect an overheat is imminent, what do you do?

Here's my checklist when I get stuck in traffic and begin to worry:
1. Turn down the A/C. The A/C removes from the air coming through the vents, and that heat gets dumped somewhere, which is your overheating engine.
2. Open the windows. I usually do this in conjunction with 1. It helps dissipate heat inside the cabin.
3. Turn on the heat. I read something online about someone running a race in a Volvo where they mentioned they had to "turn on the heat" a few times to prevent overheating.
4. Get moving! Usually this option isn't available, but it becomes my first priority when the temperature gauge starts going up.

I think number 3 has kept me from overheating at least twice. There have been two occasions where my temperature gauge has left its mid-level position and headed towards the red zone. Moving the air conditioning slider to the Heat side and turning the fan to position 3 has caused the gauge needle to go back down to its normal place in both instances, and I didn't overheat and stall.

Is there anything else to add? I was once a stupid driver who overheated my Brick a few times, and it would have been wonderful to have known back then what to do. Hopefully this can prevent some neophyte Brick drivers, like I used to be, from having that experience this summer.
--
'89 244 GL -- 103,415 miles (see profile for info on car)

Assuming that you and the overheating brick are (1) not near home base, and (2) able to drive somewhere, here's what I do:

Head for the absolute nearest store that sells distilled water, and buy 2 gallons. If you can, leave the enigne running while you are in there.

That's because when the engine stops, the coolant in the block will heat to boiling and more very quickly. BTDT

Add however much distilled water as will fit, then limp off to home base.

Get more en route if necessary. Do not drive without the cap on the overflow tank unless there is an obvious and minor leak. The pressure in the system raises the coolant boiling point considerably.

Wife and I limped home (Midland, TX to Houston, TX) in our 1983 245GL in this way. Driving under 45mph kept temp needle below the red. Turned out the rad was clogged. Car got 35 mpg, so that was a slight offset to having a 9-hour drive turn into one a heckuva lot longer.

Good Luck to all,

Bob

:>)

I guess I should get mine fixed!

Good suggestions for on-the-road response to overheating.

But of course, once home, cooling system maintenance is the next step. The 240 cooling system is adequate to handle nearly all conditions (trailer towing in Arizona in August...maybe not) when in good shape so just get it in good shape.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, "my" 94-944 B230FD; plus wifemobile Dodge minivan, hobbycar MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)

If my temp gauge spikes the last thing I want to do is start speeding off. I was driving my brothers 740 one day and the heater valve in the engine bay broke and I lost all coolant in a bit. If I hadn't acted quickly and shut off the engine, I would have overheated the engine and it would have been big bucks to fix.

If you gauge at ANY time pegs into the red, SHUT OFF THE ENGINE. The first thing you want to check is if there is any coolant in the overflow tank. Chances are it might be empty.

If your gauge just kinda creeps up a bit... you can turn on the heat and see if that helps, if it keeps going up... pull over and shut down the engine.

- If you gauge at ANY time pegs into the red, SHUT OFF THE ENGINE.

... but only if it's safe to do so!

As much of a hassle an engine swap could be, if I am not in a safe place to stop, I rather keep moving and melt the engine before I stop in the middle of a busy road and risk getting my a- whacked.

Same goes with flat tires - I rather screw up a rim by driving on it until it's safe to stop, rather than to try and change it on the side of a busy highway or something.

-- Kane
--
Blossom II - '91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles - '74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup - '86 245GL/AW70 ... The Wayback Machine - '64 P220/M40

What about trying to comfortably move over in traffic on a 500 mile road trip cause the driver gets freaked out around other cars... and toasts the engine... and has to hitchhike all the way back to town to get some sort of rental from a hick town.. and your driving partner is long gone hitch with some other dude in a working car. Too many problems I see with not shutting off the engine in time ;)

- What about trying to comfortably move over in traffic on a 500 mile road trip cause the driver gets freaked out around other cars...

Well, then the problem is that the driver doesn't have enough guts to merge properly! As a Californian, all we drivers need is an opening of at least 1-1/16 car lengths.

My point is not when out on the rural highways, or the city streets. It's when it's dangerous because of the speed, or when there's hardy any shoulder (or none at all) such as on bridges, construction zones, and old freeways way past their design intention.

-- Kane
--
Blossom II - '91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles - '74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup - '86 245GL/AW70 ... The Wayback Machine - '64 P220/M40

Sooo, which is the lesser of two evils.....continue driving, at a reduced speed with a chance of the engine bringing you to a quick stop (in traffic at 65+MPH and no brake light warning the vehicle [noooo, not a semi...!!!] behind you), or the tire/ rim throwing you into another lane [it's that semi again...], etc...OR, put the Brick in neutral while at speed, coast off the highway (4 ways blinking) as best as you can ( most bridges, and construction areas have breakdown lanes...small, but there). Other things to ponder........is it safer to stay in the car or leave it and walk to a safer position ?

If in the Holland Tunnel (NY,NY) hope that your in good standings with the powers that be !!!!!

Continued driving, seeing how the intention is not to get to your destination, but just to a safe place. Unless it's a downhill, don't shift into neutral.

A tire blowout would pull you initially, but you should be able to recoup pretty quickly in these cars - tires are not that tall (relatively speaking), good steering response, and a low CG. Quick reaction will keep it in control, and NEVER try to stop quickly with a flat - that's just asking for losing control. Instead, cruise off slowly to a safe place away from fast moving traffic. That means don't use the "breakdown" pullouts either, lest you want to risk getting whacked.

-- Kane
--
Blossom II - '91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles - '74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup - '86 245GL/AW70 ... The Wayback Machine - '64 P220/M40

Here in Southern CA the lesser of the two evils for me is to keep driving to the next exit as soon as it is safe to do so. Mind you I do not want to cause more damage to my beloved bricks but in the end what good are these bricks if we can not drive them. I'm sure that in other parts of the country there is a BIG shoulder or grassy median where someone has enough distance from moving traffic to safely change a flat or troubleshoot a overheating but on the busy So. Cal freeway shoulders are barely big enough for a motorcycle (believe me I know) and everyone that reads the SPEED LIMIT sign know that 65MPH is the slowest you can travel on the freeway. If you want to go below 65MPH get on the surface streets, Grandma!!! Sorry for the rant, just my $0.02. Take Care!

Sinerely,
--
Julio Meza

1979 264GL B27F 124K --> BW55->M46, CLS, IPD Sway, 81+ Dash, Gauges, Flat Hood

1979 262C B27F 159K --> Restore Project w/Possible B21FT

1984 245DL 214K -->Wifemobile