First the background - After my winter purchase of a 96/960 I find that the A/C doesn't work. Couldn't get the clutch to engage wired direct. Replaced the compressor & reciever drier. During disassembly noted fluorescent dye in the lines indicating a previous leak repair/attempt. During evacuation of the lines I couldn't pull more than 1200 microns with my pump. The pump will pull 2500+ on the micron gauge only. Now the question. What is low enough? I believe I'll still find that the system leaks if I refill it now. Anyone run into this before.

Sounds like a fast leak. Shoot in some compressed air (or r134 if your not a environmentalist wacko type) and you may hear the leak or detect it with soap solution.
--
David Hunter

Sounds like a fast leak. Shoot in some compressed air (or r134 if your not a environmentalist wacko type) and you may hear the leak or detect it with soap solution.
--
David Hunter

In this car, the condenser can leak at the intersection of steel support brackets and the aluminum heat exchanger, as noted in the FAQ. Look there first for leaks, then at hoses and joints, then at the evaporator.

Thanks. That's the only joint I haven't been into yet. I'm considering doing a full system flush prior to refill because I haven't found enough oil in the system & I don't have any history on this car. Found no oil in the compressor & only about 2 oz in the reciever & everything else that's been opened. Nothing tells me what the compressor should have as an initial charge of oil, just add the same amount that was in the old one. .....Not! It is a Zexel compressor not the Sanden & depending on where you look the system oil quantities are different. I'll keep you posted as to the findings.

Steve,
As an addendum, if the system leaks quickly, e.g. in less than two weeks, where would you look first, evaporator? And are those as hard to change as the older model years?
--
John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 105K

Evap leaks generally start slow. The 960 evap is more cleverly designed than the 940: you can remove it more easily due to its cartridge-like insertion.

A quick leak? I would look at condenser and o-ring joints.

Thanks... that's a bit more encouraging. I've developed this leak on the V90, but my query had two sides to it. My son who owns my old 92 960 is faced with an evaporator change, but appears to be a complex job (dealer quotes $900). I was assuming that was mostly labor in getting under the dash, since the FCP Groton price on an evaporator is not that bad.
--
John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 105K

Dear "another",

Good p.m. and hope you're well. The dye evidences a desire to spot any leaks, not necessarily that there were actually leaks due to holes in key components. For example, a loose fitting could have led to refrigerant loss. The dye migth have showed that a fitting was loose. Once that was put right, the system was tight.

Your vacuum test, though, likely means there are some pinholes. I'd target the evaporator (under the dash). Put a black light inside the footwells, and see if there's any sign of fluorescent stains (dye-loaded aircon lubricant). Check also the evaporator. Sometime stones can punch small holes in it.

Hope this starts you moving towards cool.

Yours faithfully,

spook