It's easy to test for a bent wheel. Put the wheel to be tested on one of the front positions (since there's no drive axle), and spin the wheel. The steering column should be locked tightly in one direction, and you can stack wood or blocks or something near to the tire on the ground. Have a piece of wood or a bar coming off the short stack of stuff and have it almost touching the outside lip of the wheel (at it's larges diameter), -not the tire, just the wheel rim. Spin the wheel and watch the relationship to the wheel lip and the reference bar and see if the distance changes. Check this against the specs from Volvo of the maximum permissable change/runout (it's in some of the Volvo Green service manuals).
Also, make sure that the contact surfaces between the wheel and the hub/axle is perfectly clean. I have a set of Dersus rims with my snow tires and I had to do some gentle filing at one point last year. This was to remove the Aluminum Oxide corrosion that had built up from the long drives in salt/slush. A good file will allow you to scrape away the aluminum corrosion that's stuck to the hub/rotor, and also to clean up any bubbling/blistering on the contact surface of the wheel. Be anal about this process, since 1/10 of a milimeter at the hub/rotor is significant enough to pass/fail the wheel when you run the test. The exposed Aluminum will be porous, and I applied a very light coating of high-temp brake grease to the contact surface on the wheel, and it's keeping the corrosion from further developing. If you've come this far, I would also advise pulling the rotor and cleaning the mating surface between the hub and the rotor itself.
God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
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'87 Blue 240 Wagon, 242k miles.
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