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hot start problems 200 1986

posted by  illbird68 on  Sun Jul 18 16:02 CST 2004
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last visit: Fri Jul 25 12:56 CST 2008
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Here's the story. I overheated my 86 240. Since then I have replaced the blown head gasket, had the head reworked (a full valve job and milling) and put a new timing belt on along with all the new gaskets and seals associated with a head job. The machine shop took off a lot to make the had straight (.018). Since I put her back together I have fixed the temp guage (comp bard bypass) and have gotten her to run. She won't run right unless she is at 18-22 degrees before top dead center. She runs stronger than ever (especially for a 330k mile car). But when I get her warmed up she acts like she is flooded. What is going on here? I felt like a jerk tonight at the gas station. she sputters and is very reluctant to start and there is a strong odor of gas. she continues on this path untill she finally starts (I had to mess with the timing and retard it a lot) I rev her up a few times and clear the cyls. Someone said that it could be the fuel pressure regulator. is there a way to test this device? I immedaitaly suspected the coolant temp sensor so I performed the chilton's test sand it was within spec...I have not checked the sensor since it has been running after the rebuild. This damn brick is going to put me into an early grave. I would rather not buy another pressure regulator unless I am sure that is the culprit. Additionally I was told that if you blow a head gasket..as I did..that coolant can ruin the O2 sensor. could this be the prob? I am totally lost and at my wits end. This was a big project for me to do on my summer vacation and to be this close to success and still be undrivable bites. Please help...if you can. thanks








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    hot start problems 200 1986

    posted by  HillBilly on  Mon Jul 19 01:50 CST 2004
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    last visit: Thu Oct 16 08:26 CST 2014
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    Sounds like the timing is off between the crank, cam or distributor. Check the marks on the timing belt again.








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      hot start problems 200 1986

      posted by  illbird68 on  Mon Jul 19 03:59 CST 2004
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      last visit: Fri Jul 25 12:56 CST 2008
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      I noticed when i placed the new timing belt on, that i could not get all 3 marks on the betly to match up with all 3 timing marks on the pullys. there are 2 different kinds of marks on the belt, one looks like an arrow, and the others look like double lines. when installing the belt i placed the crank pully at top dead center with the cam lobes of the #1 cyl up in a "V" like manner. then I turned the distributor pully to line up the mark on it with the mark on the timing cover. I then placed on the belt. I had to remove the distributor several times (i found out that i must have bumped it too hard and broken one of the wires in the impulse sender). I replaced the distrubutor with a junk yard part. When I put the entire thing back together i noticed that there was no more adjustment left in the distributor and that the timing was still way off (it was firing well after top dead center and the dist couldn't be turned anymore). I then took out the distributor and turned the gear one tooth over to allow for more adjustment. The car started right up and idled very high. The proceedure brought the timing mark (when viewed with the strobe) back into the rhelm of firing before top dead center. Now I found that the car runs best at around 18 degrees before top dead center. It still won't start well when hot though. I am confused about how cam timing could really effect hot start (aka allow for flooding) while still allowing awsome cold start and driving performance. I am not doubting you analysis or anything, I would jsut like to know why you say this. Thanks








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        hot start problems 200 1986

        posted by  someone claiming to be JimL on  Mon Jul 19 09:17 CST 2004 [RELATED]

        Coolant temp sensor seems like a strong possibility - maybe the computer thinks the car is cold and keeps the starting mixture too rich. Make sure you are testing the CTS under the #3 intake manifold runner. You can also have a bad wire or connector back to the computer.

        If the cam is out of time vs. the crankshaft that would explain why you need so much advance. Setting the cam with the lobes "up" and centered on the cam axis only works if the intake and exhaust timing are concentric around TDC. The cam timing would also have been affected by milling of the cylinder head.

        Out of whack cam timing could affect the vacuum signal while cranking, maybe leading to too high fuel pressure from the FPR or other problem with the mixture.

        Don't the crank and cam sprockets have marks on them that align with notches in the timing belt cover or the housing so they can be set independently of the printing on the timing belt? The manual should cover.








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          hot start problems 200 1986

          posted by  illbird68 on  Mon Jul 19 15:29 CST 2004
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          last visit: Fri Jul 25 12:56 CST 2008
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          tonight i examined the timing belt and the marks on the pullies. all is as it should be and i put it all back together. i posted a full discription of my problem on the main rwd page. any other thoughts? cts? fuel pump relay? AMM? beats me. can severe overheating kill the CTS? I tested it at the ecu using chiltons procedure on the cold engine and it was within spec. I have not checked it with the engine warm. what do u think is the cause?








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          hot start problems 200 1986

          posted by  illbird68 on  Mon Jul 19 10:26 CST 2004
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          last visit: Fri Jul 25 12:56 CST 2008
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          Thanks, when i get home tonight I will double check to see if my sprocket marks match up with my timing cover marks. The more I think about it the more I think this is the culprit. I was thinking timing advance would need to be adjusted to compensate for the increase in compression, but I was thinking more retarding would be the way to go not...advancement. I have a 72 pontiac 6.6 liter V8 that ran like garbage when i got it and when i gave it a lot more advance it really woke up. I then read that it only has 8.5:1 compression. I guess low compression means more advance and high compression means less advance? I guess this volvo starting at 9.5:1 and being milled .018 probably has 10.5:1 or even 11:1 compression now...which to a V8 guy seems extremely high for pump gas...I would think tons of retard would be in order....I hope the solution is as easy as adjusting the belt...thanks for the input.







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