Don't forget to loosen the threads on your tire lug nuts before lifting the car in the air.

If you don't have an impact wrench, and are trying to take the front tires off, you will get very very frustrated when the tires continue to spin while you try to loosen the lugs.

Remember to torque them to 85 ft*lbs when putting the lugs back on. Just start the threads and hand tighten before lowering the car, then torque them down when the wheels are on the ground again, making sure you torque in that "star" pattern that you will find in the Bentley manual.

Good luck!
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If you listen to the radio in Portland, OR, you may know me as 'Portland's Favorite Soul Brother!'

If I don't need to remove/move the wheels, I prefer ramps. They're sturdier and give a better sense of safety. So, I second Aye Roll's suggestion of using ramps.

If you choose to go that way, try using spare tires (on rims) lying flat to block ramp slippage while ascending.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

You want the jack stands under solid frame, and the corners of the frame rails, or rear control arm mounts are a good place- especially if you are going to be lifting using the jack mount.
I do recommend using a good jack- the scissor jack is really only good for emergency service, and they are weak- I've seen A LOT of bent ones.
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT, place your body under the car, until it is secured on jack stands. The jack alone is unacceptable for support while working under the car. A pair of ramps would be a great addition to your garage as well for this work- they helped when I put turbo sways in my 240.

I also found I needed new brackets to accomodate the new style bushings, though I got black rubber ones that came with a Volvo part # on them. The original type is cylindrical- the replacement/turbo size units have a big rectangular locating block in the middle of them, and require new bracket pieces on each side.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 230K, 88 744GLE- 220K, 82 245T-181K Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 87 244DL, 239K, 94 855GLT 189K

I put the jack stands under the supports that are designed for the factory jack. There's one behind each front wheel. I place the stands so that the round metal bar of the factory jack support sits in the cradle of the jack stand. Depending on the design of your stands, this may or may not work for you. The top of the jack stands are positioned across the car, not front to back. The top of the jack stands have to be narrow enough for the round piece of the car to settle into the cradle of the stand. The car ends up super stable because the support spots are toward the outside edge of the car.
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Thanks everyone for all the information and advice, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock, B21F (non-Turbo), M46; 86 244, B230, 140k , auto.

First off, I would recommend buying a larger jack than the scissor jack that comes with the car - that jack likely won't lift the car much further than to change a tire. You'll want the car a good ways up in the air.

For jacking up the front of the car, get a good sized hydraulic floor jack and lift at the crossmember near the radiator (NOT on the radiator itself!). You may need a block of wood to get sufficient height even with a nice big jack as these cars have a good deal of ground clearance. Place jackstands under the two big frame pieces that the rearmost front control arm bolts bolt into - the ones with the small holes in them. This will hold the car very securely - my 245's been sitting on them for about a month now waiting on parts for a front brake/strut repair :)
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85 240 DL wagon - 91 Mazda MX6 Turbo