Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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Looking for a 145 or maybe a 220. 140-160

Hi. I'm wondering if I can get a bit of advice on looking at an old Volvo wagon. I'm thinking about looking at a 145 but I'm not sure if some years are better than others. I know there were engine changes with different hp ratings. I think there may have been interior and exterior changes as well. What about the transmissions- were the autos ok or should I stick with manual? Anything else that I should be looking for in a desireable 145? I'm also considering the 122 series wagon and if anyone has advise regarding that model, I'd appreciate it as well. Thanks in advance!

Peter
1991 745SE








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    Looking for a 145 or maybe a 220. 140-160

    The 122s are sexier but I got a soft spot for the 140s.
    Most of the problems I had had with my '84 240 was in the wiring, the connectors tend to corode in Oregon, and the starter eventualy died at 300K miles so I drove it for another year by parking only on hills.

    The 2 140s I've had are great to work on once your knuckle callouses come in.
    There is very little to go wrong with the electronics because their aint any and most parts are priced reasonably.

    The B20 engings in the 140s have a high nickle concentration in the cylinder heads and wear extremly well. When I parted out my old '69 142 w 250K miles on the clock, I found that the cylinder walls had the origional factory honing marks on them, so that part of the legend is true.
    I think the only soft spot on the engines are the cams, which can wear "premeturly" at 150K or so.

    The early 145's interior is no mini-van, but is roomy. There is enfough room for me to sleep in the back with the rear seat folded down.
    The interior is also a lot more spartan than the 245 with a lot of painted sheet metal, but easy to clean :)
    Common rust areas are the rear floor pans, and the bottoms of the fenders.
    The manual tranny is as close to bullet proof as you can get. Figuratively speaking, you can look at it as a solid chunk of cast iron with to shafts poking out that Magicly turn in relation to each other.
    All of the 140's have 4 wheel disk brakes with 2 hydrolic circuits in case one fails.


    The 122s have the added feature of having the cool split tailgate with the hinged license plate mount so you can have the tags visible when driving around with the tailgate open. Its a neet conversation piece and also a common rust area as I understand it.

    With either the 122, and the 140s, its important to keep in mind that they are not leaking, rather they are just marking their territory.
    --
    '70 145, Webber converson, trying to keep it stock other than that.








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    Looking for a 145 or maybe a 220. 140-160

    The 122s are sexier but I got a soft spot for the 140s.
    Most of the problems I had had with my '84 240 was in the wiring, the connectors tend to corode in Oregon, and the starter eventualy died at 300K miles so I drove it for another year by parking only on hills.

    The 2 140s I've had are great to work on once your knuckle callouses come in.
    There is very little to go wrong with the electronics because their aint any and most parts are priced reasonably.

    The B20 engings in the 140s have a high nickle concentration in the cylinder heads and wear extremly well. When I parted out my old '69 142 w 250K miles on the clock, I found that the cylinder walls had the origional factory honing marks on them, so that part of the legend is true.
    I think the only soft spot on the engines are the cams, which can wear "premeturly" at 150K or so.

    The early 145's interior is no mini-van, but is roomy. There is enfough room for me to sleep in the back with the rear seat folded down.
    The interior is also a lot more spartan than the 245 with a lot of painted sheet metal, but easy to clean :)
    Common rust areas are the rear floor pans, and the bottoms of the fenders.
    The manual tranny is as close to bullet proof as you can get. Figuratively speaking, you can look at it as a solid chunk of cast iron with to shafts poking out that Magicly turn in relation to each other.
    All of the 140's have 4 wheel disk brakes with 2 hydrolic circuits in case one fails.


    The 122s have the added feature of having the cool split tailgate with the hinged license plate mount so you can have the tags visible when driving around with the tailgate open. Its a neet conversation piece and also a common rust area as I understand it.

    With either the 122, and the 140s, its important to keep in mind that they are not leaking, rather they are just marking their territory.
    --
    '70 145, Webber converson, trying to keep it stock other than that.








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    Hmm... I would look for 140-160

    SU carbs over Strombergs. I feel the SUs are better and make more power.
    Manual over automatic. The 140 series is too heavy for the power they have and an auto just makes it worse. The Auto that they use is a good one but the 4 speed with an overdrive is the best.
    I like the 72 model year. They have better radiators, newer style door handels, and a slightly nicer interior, shorter shifter. Some people (including me) like the look of the early front grill. I like the early (68-70?) tip out rear window too.
    The big thing is weight. The newer the 140 the heavyer it is

    http://www.ipdusa.com/ClassifiedAdDetailsList.aspx?CategoryID=5
    Look at the 9th one down (the green one)

    They are all good cars with the 71 E motor being the highest HP (others are simaler). 74 had the strongest crank and pistons but not as much HP as the early cars with Electronic fuel injection. The Electronic injected cars make great power and are a joy to drive. However finding someone to keep it that way could be a chalenge depending on where you are..

    This is my 145



    john








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    Looking for a 145 or maybe a 220. 140-160

    About the 140s, which are definitely my favorite of the Volvos... (maybe because i own one, who knows) The older it is, generally the less creature comforts will come stock in it. The 67-72 had the lightest weight bumpers with no shocks on them and the small front turn signals. The 67-70 had the aluminum one piece grill, the 71-72 had the three peice grill with the center rectangle part, and then the 73-74 had a different looking three piece grill. The 73-74 models have the early 240 style interior along with the amenities and the comfort of a real ventilation system, although they are QUITE a pain i hear to get to the heater motor and what ever else lies behind the dash. The 73 models had the same style of bumper as the earlier ones but was slightly thicker material and was mounted with bumper shocks as opposed to just bolted to the "frame". The 74 models also were shock mounted, but they were BIG bumpers... The 73 and 74 i think also had different rear taillights, but maybe it was just the 74 that had different ones. Also, somewhere along those lines, the rear defroster changed from some ducting to the rear window to a newer style defroster wire on the window type thing.

    Then onto the motors... I don't really know much about the motor specifics, but i do know some stuff. The 67-68 models came ORIGINALLY with the b18 motor, in two or three different forms, and then the 69-70 models came with the b20 with two or three different forms. The 71 model 140s have the b20E engine with the highest compression and the highest factory output of all the 140 series cars. The 72-74 models had the b20F motor, which has lower compression and lower output. The 74 motors are said to be the best for modifying, if you're into that kind of thing =D. (i've got a 74 block in my 68 142) And i can't remember what else i was going to say. Except for the auto vs manual topic, the auto is quite a bit slower, less fun, has reduced gas mileage, and can be a bit of a hag. But it can go on forever i think if properly taken care of. The manual transmissions (m40=4spd, m41=4spd+OD), are much livelier and more fun and more frugal on the gas. They can go on forever as well, even if neglected(not recommended), but they can get noisy and be slightly finicky and still keep on going. (last year i snapped first gear in a worn out m40 drag racing, and still drove the car around for 600 miles with chunks in there and without replacing the fluid even for the first couple 2-300 miles of it...)

    And that's what i have to say. Hopefully it'll be of some help. And there are things that i have missed out on, and there might be some other minor differences that i didn't get all correctly stated. But yeah, that's that, and then the main thing is, GET A GOOD BODY! =D Happy hunting! PEace,
    --
    Kyle - attending Ore. State, while my lil '68 142 (256k, 74 b20, m40, iPd bars, other misc... =D) waits for its next outing... (My Cardomain site)








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    Looking for a 145 or maybe a 220. 140-160

    I am getting ready to sell my 73 145e (Orange, looks exactly like the one in Greenteagod's picture nearby). Like his (I think) a mostly Texas car. Daily driver for 20 years until moved to a hilly country road that needs AWD in the winter. Oodles of extras. Here is ad that will appear in VCOA Rolling: 1973 145E, Orange wagon. Rebuilt IPD big-bore engine, street-torque cam, 10:1 compression, IPD F.I. controller, upgraded radiator, oil cooler, alternator. Runs great. Good tires; 175k miles. Many upgrades: electronic ignition, vented front brakes recently rebuilt, M410 4spd+od gearbox, power steering, trailer hitch, roof rack. Factory a/c upgraded to R134a and Sanden compressor. Tinted glass, cloth-insert seat covers, tach, Kenwood stereo with 10 disk CD changer, amp, 4 speakers + subwoofer. Rust-free mostly-Texas car; paint, chrome, dash, interior all in very good condition. Lots of spares. Daily driver since 1983. $3500 or b/o. John Chirgwin, Charlottesville VA (434-295-6332) Jc3qb@virginia.edu.








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    Looking for a 145 or maybe a 220. 140-160

    145 is more roomy. 122 is maybe more stylish.
    Either case, find a rust free (near as possible) one. You can end up in restoration heck up to your neck in decisions about floor and panel replacement, not to mention bloody knuckles.
    Drivetrains are entirely interchangeable. Rear axels are not, where there may be a consideration about rear disc brakes on earlier 122's.
    Most mechanical parts are easy to find, at least on line.
    Manual transmissions are eventually preferable, once you accept the facts about owning and daily driving an old volvo. Autos are fine if expectations of mileage and performance are not high.
    Certain things always need to be done. Center driveshaft bearing replacement. Door stops break off. Common minor windsheld leaks. Heater fan in late 145's.
    Interiors are going to be worn, unless totally babied. Easy (possible) to swap in 245 interiors to late 145's.

    I have a 74 145 with 255k on the odometer, just pulled the engine and it shows only .001 wear in the cylinders, which is negligible. Suspension-wise, it really only needed lower balljoints. I felt lucky. The car was from Oregon.

    Really the only issue is rust. They drive and ride great, get good mileage, and are cheap to insure.



    --
    '74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'








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    Looking for a 145 or maybe a 220. 140-160

    Click on my signature and look for the factory service manual, it will give some hp numbers and such. Stick with a manual and I like the 73 myself which is what I own. 74 had huge bumpers and bleh. I'd like to get a 122 wagon myself but know pretty much nothing about them and I think if you're looking for a nice base to start out with for some "spirited" driving that the 145 would be more suited to your tastes.
    --








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      Looking for a 145 or maybe a 220. 140-160

      Gentlemen, thank you for input- very insightful. I'd like to find a stick- I drove a 73 to New York city for a friend once years ago and really enjoyed it. Convincing my wife on the other hand could be trickier. She can drive manual but is not comfortable with it.
      Has anyone out there had both the 145 and 245 to compare as cars?

      Thanks again.

      Peter
      1991 745SE








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        245 nah. 140-160

        I've had an '81 245 and '73 and '74 145e's.

        The difference in suspension is almost entirely in the front.
        The 145 had unequal length a-arms, normal shocks, and numerous pivot points.
        I prefer it, even though it is more work to rebuild. Even with the worm-and-roller steering box, I think it handles bumps and corners better. I upgraded the front sway bar to a IPD. The 240 has strut front suspension, which has fewer pivot points, and I don't think they feel as sure, for some reason. Maybe the forces aren't spread around like the 140. It may be that there are limitations to the strut geometry. When the 145 is jacked off the ground, the wheels tilt in at the top visibly. I think that might position it for a more solid landing when it comes down. I also can adjust my front suspension (caster, camber), which I never could on the 245.

        I also like seeing over the hood more easily in the 145.

        However there are 1992 245's which are 18 years newer than the newest 145. I'd take one of those, if the price were right. I think 245's rusted more than the old ones, too. My 245 rear floors were gone in a few years. It was before I had the savvy to catch such things early.

        The engines... The b18/b20 head is cast iron. IMHO the only major engine casting material, if longevity is key. HP is tolerable and can be bought.
        --
        '74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'








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        The 240 is a real tank 140-160

        Almost impervious to wear. I mean, they do have some things that wear out (steering racks, front a arm bushings, front struts) but the B21 is almost indestructable. B21s almost always make it to well over 200K. I had a B21 once that ran real strong and didn't burn any oil. I moved it from car to car till I had almost 300K on it.
        Down sides to a 240? Very common. You see yourself comming and going all the time. Heavey handeling (can be fixed with a call to IPD) Did I say the 240 is really heavy! the B21 doesn't put out that much power to cart it around eather.
        If I were to buy a 240 today it would be a 84 Turbo wagon with intercooler. That was the best in my opinion.

        john







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