Bricksters-

Hello to all-

Anyone know where i can get a used AMM # 016 for my 1989 brick?
I've sourced one on ebay before, and paid $50, i think.
What's a reasonable price to pay for a used bosch part?
They want $285 for a new one.

Thanks for any advice-

When I first got my car (not running due to AMM)and was in a hurry, the 016 cost about $80 on eBay because someone else also wanted it bad that week.

Then I finally found one for a spare at the local pick-n-pull for $9. But when I tried it in the car, it was bad so I returned it.

I kept lowballing on eBay until I got a spare for about $25 including shipping.

So I guess $50 is good if you are in a hurry, but you can do better if you aren't.

I never tried a rebuilt one, but everyone says they are bad news.
--
Andy in St. Paul, '91 745 Regina 194K mi, '89 244 138K, '87 245 RIP

Andy-

The last one i got cost me $50 on ebay, which i thought was ok. before that, a mechanic that did a few things charged me $200 for a used one. i should kick his as#, but i guess it's an expensive part. this will be my 4th. i hate the AMM. i put the last one in myself, but didn't replace the airbox thermo- any thought on that? do i need one?

The preheat hose (exhaust manifold to airbox) on my 244 was broken when I got the car, but I would have disconnected it if it hadn't been. Too much trouble, in my opinion, for the small fuel economy and emissions improvement in only the first few minutes of operation. I know many people who live where there are emissions inspections (Minnesota doesn't) connect the hose only one day a year.

I will find another at the pick-n-pull eventually. I hear even those places get $50 for them in some parts of the country, but the one here is still $9. If you have one anywhere near you you should visit it. The education of removing the parts yourself and seeing how things go together is well worth the trouble.
--
Andy in St. Paul, '91 745 Regina 194K mi, '89 244 138K, '87 245 RIP

Hello,

Either that or the local junk yard would be a good choice. 50 bucks is allright.

--
Happy Bricking!!! - Richard - '87 245 DL , '82 242 GLT - Half a million km between them!!!

thanks Richard-

i figured that $50 was a decent price. $285 for new is rough.

Personally I paid $240 from Volvo for a new one, using of course, my Volvo For Life coupons to get it a decent price.
I would not get a used one for two reasons. One, these go because they are old. Miles and usage doesn't play a role. They simply last for 10-14 yrs, depending on the climate and how the car is stored. Second, you take a chance on a used one, and may perform for a little while and quit, or perform sub standard for a long while. Total failure is not always the case with the 016, as is the case with the earlier ones. The car could run well most of the time with a used one, but when it comes to passing emissions, it's a crap-shoot, and you may find yourself getting a new one anyway.
Stay away from non-Bosch rebuilts. I have found the LH 2.4 system only performs as designed with a Bosch new or Volvo Bosch rebuilt, and also can be had for cheaper from Volvo w/discounts than aftermarket suppliers when considering core charges and shipping. If you plan on keeping the car for long, go to the dealer and plead for at least a 10% off, and get a re-built from them.
--
'89 245 Sportwagon, '04 V70 2.5T Sportwagon

Thanks for the info- i guess it only makes sense that those parts will wear out, over time. why would a car fail emissions bec. of the AMM?

The Air Mass Meter, like it's name implies, measures how much air is being drawn into the engine. The computer uses that information and info from other sensors (RPM, temperature, O2 sensor) to determine how long to leave the fuel injectors open during each cycle and therefore how much fuel gets in to be burned efficiently with that volume of air. So any of the sensors lying to the computer will cause the car to run rich, or lean, or not at all. Excess exhaust "dirtiness" would also result.

That is why "vacuum" leaks which allow air into the intake manifold cause running issues since this extra air has not been metered by the AMM and throws off the fuel-air calculation.

I personally have not seen any AMM failures that were not dramatic. Surging at idle at least, but more often not running or not running above idle. The other sensors too, with the exception of the O2 sensor seem to be pretty much working or dead. O2 sensors do seem to degrade slowly and replacing them at the recommended interval will help keep your gas milage high and your emissions low.

Just my observations and opinions.

Andy
--
Andy in St. Paul, '91 745 Regina 194K mi, '89 244 138K, '87 245 RIP