I'm interested in putting in a turbo unit on my na kjet 1982 dl car wit chrysler ignition. It's a stick shift and i'm alright with mechanical things...i have a basic set of tools for this sort of work.

How much would you estimate it would cost for me to put in a turbo unit on this car...what sorts of parts would i need...?

How much would an intercooler add to this price?
and lastly...

can i do it legally in california...so as it passes smog:)


thanks

Hmmmm well I am getting ready to part out my 1982 240 Turbo. The engine and trans(auto) are in decent shape and the turbo was installed but had little milage on it when i obtained the car. It will be a while until I am ready to let it all go as I am doing a lot of dress up swapping ( gages, dash panels, interior and other things I find of interest. Any way keep me in mind if you still want to do a turbo installation.. I hope to be finished in the next 30 days..also if anyone needs body parts theese are faded but in decent shape, no dents.

hmm...it's probably not worth all that trouble then...

especially when your left with a car that's not capable of as much boost when it's all said and done.

the search is on for a good turbo 244:)

i was right where u are about four or five months ago. did some investegation on the turbo setup and decieded no. i bought the 85 240 turbo/w intercooler. for 880.00$ good body, good motor. but needed some stuff for sure. wire harness, sensors, tranny, calipers, all motor seals, all belts, all hoses water and vac, seats, the A cam and gear. 25mm 23mm sways. stuff like that. good thing labor at my house is cheap. but all in all i dont see how i could go back to the n.a. cars. i have under 2 grand in her and its really shaping up. the wifes crown vic (v8) can hardly keep up with my turbo. good luck.

how fast is the 0-60 time....?

just curious:)

i've heard it the ones with intercooler can go 0 to 60 in about 6.9 seconds stock

without iC 9 seconds


i have a feeling that if modifying with a good exhaust and head....we can take these things to maybe 5.5 seconds flat....insanely fast

:)

The only article i saw on turbobricks applies to an na efi setup. No one has mentioned the fact that if you retain the Kjet you will have to relocate the fuel distibutor/air intake unit to the pass. side of the car.The easiest way to do the swap (if you're staying with Kjet) would be to scavenge a turbo 240.Get the fuel dist.,intake plumbing,turbo w. manifold, intercooler,and use the b23 or 230 intake with intercooler to thrttlebody piping from a 740T. Oh i forgot you'll also need the steel fuel lines from the 240T. Of course with out changing the C.R. you will need to adjust the wastegate back for less boost, or opt for a boost controller of some kind.As far as the computers go between an '82 na and any 240T there the same. As you can see i've done a lot of thinking on this subject,as soon as i find a 240T doner i'll be doing it to my '78 244. Good luck, think it through . B.G.

If you're comfortable with performing some fairly involved work on the car, and you understand that you are developing a non-stock setup which will be inherently less reliable (depends on how complete a job you do), the F+T route is great. I am finally nearing the actual conversion, after having accumulated the parts and info for over a year and half.

You need the turbo and exhaust manifold, an oil return line fitting of some sort (added to block or pan), an oil supply line, and the various hoses and fittings at a minimum. I would not run an F+T without an intercooler - the higher compression NA motor will run hotter at any given psi already. I would also not fool around with the little Mitsu turbos - get a T3 .42/.48 at least, because the NA motor has more exhaust energy imparted by the increased CR.

How well the conversion works depends on where you go from here - the NA fuel system can be made to work, extra injectors can be adapted... but really, a Turbo ECU, bigger injectors (and resistor pack) makes more sense. Exhaust can be standard 240T, but a 2.5" or 3" downpipe and exhaust with a Dynomax Bullet or some such muffler will be a LOT better.

But I'm rambling on now - just go to the aforementioned Turbobricks Article forum and read up on the details there.
--
Speed Racer, '83 240 R, '74 164 E, '93 940 OL1 (Manchester, CT)

Great topic... I have the same set up in a sedan. I am also interested in hearing what our experts say. Ali, as far as I know you would need an intercooler, the turbo and the wiring harness from a turbo model. Also, i hear it's a good idea to put on a B23 cylinder head for its compression ratio, then ofcourse there is the exhaust plumbing. From what I know (which isn't alot) you bassically want a turbo car even if its a junker and just take all of its turbo and top-end parts which seems to be a bolt on job assuming youve sorted out, cleaned, maybe re-ported and polished all of the scavenged parts. A tubo rebuild is also a good idea. I hear mitsubishi turbos are a possibility.

I'm hanging on to my 82 with white cap just for this same upgrade, which maybe in two years time. but meaqnwhile I'm on the look out for that $300 turbo car. I betcha turbobricks.com is also a good resource if you don't mind thier qausi-rice attitude....

Always a great topic.

If you are looking for power there are many ways to coax horsepower from an 8 valve n/a motor... 175-250 horses can be easily done in the $1000 to $1500 range! Another great possibility might be a 16 valve head conversion... this will, most likely, cost more than what either I or Toby have suggested.

If you want to convert to turbo then I definitely suggest you take a ride, again as the other poster suggested, to turbobricks.com... they have a general forum entitled "articles"... click on that... and within you will find an extensive write up on the topic. There are several ways to go about the conversion and it can be done either way, the plus turbo route or the entire drivetrain route, for less than $500. I think the +turbo route is super interesting and affordable. A good base requires that your current motor be in top condition. Also, keep in mind that air, fuel, & exhaust flow will be the keys to power, especially important will be the Brick's fuel system as detonation is the killer of a daily driver!

On the Brick Board you may find a little dissention on this particular topic. Some may suggest the entire drivetrain & wiring harness route is the only reliable method of putting a turbo in a n/a car... not so. Guys on TurboBricks are running the +turbo set up and have the bugs worked out.

In the end, the power you hope to get out of any modification really depends upon the BUDGET and one's technical ability.

Peace, Jon

don't forget that turbo motors ,in general, require beefer internals. forged pistons are usually suggested if you want any kind of reliability out of the thing....I do not know how much forged volvo pistons would cost or if they are available, but generally forged slugs are pretty hard shots to the wallet. Not to mention the stronger rods, bearings and bolts/studs. This sounds like an expensive and very time consuming mod, possible but not really a weekend type thing. I would personally suggest finding a turbo motor and doing the swap...even if u have to do a full rebuild/upgrade, at least you know that it will work in the end and not detonate into a smokey mess. there is always te v8 rout to go if you want more power.