I just did this yesterday on my turbo 760 wagon...get spare clips at a boneyard or dealer (oooouch).
Then go to Lowes, or Home Depot and buy a small piece of galvinized steel plate (get it thin...easy to bend).
Get some self tapping screws with philips heads about 1/2" to 3/4" long.
Cut strips about 2 1/2" long...thin enough to fit through the thinnest part of the clip (the clip must be able able to rotate easily).
Fold the strips around where the clip normally would fit into the box "ear" (that now has broken off so you can no longer mount the clips..right?) be sure to leave a round "chamber" for the clip to move, and rotate.
Now use a punch to start a hole about 1/4" below round chamber, drill for screw.
With the airbox removed and the top in place...position the clamp where it will clamp the upper box in the right spot. Then mark both outline and where you will actually drive the screw through the plastic. I found that the screw needs to go slightly upwards so that it was snug in the corner of the plastic lip.
Cut another piece of metal about 1/2" by 1/2"...and by the way- nipping off the sharp corners on all of these metal parts can sure save some bandaids!
Anyway this will become your inside backing plate...you will want to punch a small hole for the screw to bite into after it goes through the plastic airbox...the "backer" should be flush or below the airbox edge.
Clip or cut off any excess screw length that will get in the way of the filter (lineman's pliers,hacksaw,boltcutter, dremel).
Replace all of the missing/or soon to be and you should now be able to clamp the sides and the top of the airbox with the Volvo spring clamps...
If you want to put a washer on the screw make sure that it is small enough not to interfere with the clamp.
I found that my airbox had become somewhat distorted from heat and there were gaps at some points where the air filter actually fit...the centers of the end panels had "pushed in" about a 1/4".
So, while the box was out I carefully fanned the panels in question with a propane torch (not to melting point!) then using a shop towel I pushed the panel inwards and held it there until it cooled.
A couple of trys and everything fit much better...in theory it all should be straight, but a little massaging actually got it all working right.
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NOTE>>>VERY VERY>>>IMPORTANT...
DO NOT HURT your AMM...VERY, VERY Expensive! unplug it then remove the airbox top...put it in safe place...then Bosch Platium Wires are FRAGILE !!!
DO NOT use "cleaners" inside it and NEVER NEVER heat it!!!!
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another tip-
While things were apart I also checked my thermal door in the airbox. This is the flap that sends pre-heated air from the box on the exhaust or cool fresh air to the engine.
I was suspious as it was always seemed to be in the pre-heat side every time I had looked before.
I had read a posting suggesting that this could cause an early death of your AMM (and I just had to replace mine), could hurt the gas mileage as well.
So I carefully ran a small propane flame over the bithermal metal spring that moves the flap...and was shocked that mine did not move at all until I pratically cooked the spring! I mean hot,hot.
Using thin bailing wire I have bound the flap to only allow in cool air, if you can call the Humid,Hot,Sticky air we have here in the south cool.
There are a couple of water drain holes that you can use to wrap the wire around the flap and through the bottom holes to temporarily hold it in place.
Good Luck.
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