make sure the glide pins are properly lubricated and the boots are bot cracked or split.
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Not any more Monty

Rotors do not warp but deposits from new pads make the surface uneven. The bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits on rotors.

There is an article that covers this in depth :

www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

Not only proper torque but in a proper sequence is very important also. Snug all bolts down, then bring them up to proper torque in a cross pattern, going across from the last one tightened. Do not start at one and work your way around to the next one till you complete a circle as this will still warp the rotor as much as improper torque. Like the man said besides torque, HEAT is what warps them. Even though you drive primarily highway miles do you plan your stops and some times do your slow down for the off ramp in stages or wait till you are almost at the end and hit the brakes hard. A good way to avoid overheating is to take a chunk of speed off in one shot, let up and let it cool a little then finish your stop or do it in stages if you can. A good tequneque I learned driving for 30 years in the Colorado mountains.
Dennis

Warping rotors and brake pads do not have much in common, ie., the pads will cause the rotors to warp. High heat and rapid cool down will. If a garage does your work for you, buy a torque wrench and re-torque the log nuts when the air wrenchers get done working on your car. About 82 pounds of torque on each bolt should do it.
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95 854T, 88 780, 88 245