I have replaced warped rotors on the front end of my 1998 V90 multiple times both in and out of warranty. I have adopted a program to replace the brake pads early to avoid warping the rotors. Is there a better approach? Should I opt for heavier performance rotors or change the composition of the break pads?

I do highway driving primarily.

thanks

make sure the glide pins are properly lubricated and the boots are bot cracked or split.
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Not any more Monty

Mr Token Ring Man,

Would you post (or send me) your intake manifold replacement pics?

Thank you,

Dan

Rotors do not warp but deposits from new pads make the surface uneven. The bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits on rotors.

There is an article that covers this in depth :

www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

Not true. Smith used many qualifications before he said that. Rotors do warp if those qualifications have not been met.

In 40 odd years of driving with disk brakes I have NEVER warped a rotor, and that includes autocrosses and "Driver education" events. I have had to replace them for getting too rusty or too thin.

When my wife's brakes get "pulsie" I usually fix them with a few hard stops from 70 or so as I exit the interstate near our house. I've sometimes resorted to sanding them to get back to fresh metal. I ALWAYS use a torque wrench to put the lug nuts on.

With my own driving style, I usually just drive, replace pads, drive, replace pads.....
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'96 965 with 16' wheels at 118K. Had '85 745 Turbo Diesel for 200K.

Not only proper torque but in a proper sequence is very important also. Snug all bolts down, then bring them up to proper torque in a cross pattern, going across from the last one tightened. Do not start at one and work your way around to the next one till you complete a circle as this will still warp the rotor as much as improper torque. Like the man said besides torque, HEAT is what warps them. Even though you drive primarily highway miles do you plan your stops and some times do your slow down for the off ramp in stages or wait till you are almost at the end and hit the brakes hard. A good way to avoid overheating is to take a chunk of speed off in one shot, let up and let it cool a little then finish your stop or do it in stages if you can. A good tequneque I learned driving for 30 years in the Colorado mountains.
Dennis

Warping rotors and brake pads do not have much in common, ie., the pads will cause the rotors to warp. High heat and rapid cool down will. If a garage does your work for you, buy a torque wrench and re-torque the log nuts when the air wrenchers get done working on your car. About 82 pounds of torque on each bolt should do it.
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95 854T, 88 780, 88 245

You might want to check the recommended torque setting. For my s90 it is 63 ft lbs. The owners manual should list what it is. I learned the hard way about using an impact wrench on these wheels.

FYI, I have been running the german "Zimmerman" rotors from FCP in my car for the last couple of years. Excellent quality and cost is about 40ish each.
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97 S90 with 175K miles still going strong

Thanks for the info. I'll check the lugs with a torque wrench. Londe

The correct torque setting is 63 ft.lbs, for your car.

DEWFPO
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1998 S90 069,500 and 1995 964 153,010