Well disconnected AMM and the engins still ran rich - finally found the fitting to assemble a fuel pressure gauge so I'll run that test tomorrow - if that checks out then I can only suspect the AMM and try another swap - have gone through all the diagnostics I can think off. Just keeping at it. Thanks for all tips!

Intersting info..I'll try unhooking the AMM and starting the car - so I can rule that out. I always wondered why the throttle switch was required - Thanks for the helpful explaination. I'll need to check that at the ECU going by the manual. I also have a spare ECT sensor I'm going to try.

Thanks for the help - I'll do the tests and let you know what happens. Never thought of starting the car with AMM disconnected - always pulled it off while car was running. Thanks!

Okay - Ran the tests without any successful results.

1. Starting car with AMM disconnected yeilds the same rich signal from 02 sensor - steady climb from .4V to .9V - car runs pretty smooth for limp-home mode. Reconnected AMM and engine hisitated and then ran as before - 02 sensor measured a slight decline from .97 V to .92 V. (AMM seems to work?)

2. Checked Throttle switch and can hear click upon slight movement of throttle , checked connection to switch, seems okay, when switch is disconnected RPM's rise a bit and when plugged in RPM's go back down to idle. (seems okay)

3. Checked engine coolant temp. sensor and it yeilded a similar reading as other new sensor - it is also recently installed so should be no problem with sensor output - also saw ohms at ECU were same as at sensor.

4. ECU swap yielded no new results - still rich

Additionally:

4. Disconnected Idle Air Valve and nothing changed in engine tone, also disconnected Knock sensor and nothing seemed to change.

5. Checked timing and engine is at 12 degrees at idle - rises steadly with throttle and at high RPM will shift back and forth between about 5 degrees.

Questions:

This seems to lead me to the two remaing parts of the FI system the Hall Sensor and the Power Stage.

1. Can the Hall sensor effect the duration of the injector openning to create a rich condition?

2. Can a bad poswer stage screw up the duration of the injector openning to create a rich condition?

3. Is something as simple as bad ignition wires (dist. to plugs) - something I have not changed create a weak spark and not detonate the fuel - another rich condition

4. Would a blocked Catalytic convertor not allow exhaust to move out and therefore create a rich condition? I thought this would effect the airflow through the AMM but now I am thinking not since the turbo and the pistons are creating the draw on the intake side - maybe I have a blocked exhaust system?

Thanks for all help!

When the car stops running it is due to flooding from the rich condition - so a power stage failure would mean that there is no power going to the injectors at all. If I dry out the plugs it will start up again no problem. Just that the car runs rich. Can a bad power stage create a rich running condition? If not than It seems I would rule that out.