Good mornin

I read the FAQ section on installing sparkplugs...

I remember once saying they should be tightened at 18lb of torque... but the FAQ said six cylinders only need 9 lbs...

This is my first changing the plugs on the 96 960 hemi. Any words of advice for the 6304 engine?

Thanks once more!
Al

p.s. I got NGK coppers

I installed NKG plugs and also tried to use 18 lbs of torque but I could tell that it wasn't correct. I used my judgement and only used 10 lbs.
Believe the 9 lbs.... it sounds right judging from my personal experience.

Good choice on the plugs. NGKs come with a very nice crush washer. I didn't have a torque wrench but the plugs had instructions to go 1/8th or 1/16th of a turn after they are tight on the head. Basically you want to crush the washer. Please let us know what you think of the plugs. There is only a handful of us using these plugson 960s. Good luck.
Justin
94 965

Justin,

I had no problems at all with the NGK's. I ran them for 30k and they never missed a beat.

DEWFPO
--
1998 S90 070,050 and 1995 964 153,010

Advice?

After removing the coil, take an air hose and blow out each hole BEFORE you remove the plug.

If the existing plugs are in tight, make sure you hold the socket extension perfectly vertical when appling a lot of torque.

Lube the new plug threads with a little aluminum compatible anti-seize.

Don't worry about the 9-18 ft.lbs. Snug the plug in then turn another 1/3 - 1/2 turn, no more.

I always work on a cold engine, the anti-seize helps a lot.

DEWFPO
--
1998 S90 069,500 and 1995 964 153,010

DEWFPO,

you're the man!

in the 700/900 FAQ insert it suggested not to use anti-seize...

I think you are because 960 has a unique engine block... can you confirm on that? or is that why you suggested aluminum anti-seize...

thanks!


p.s. i don't have an air hose, but how bout a good ol' vacuum?

Hi VV96096,

After removing the plugs on our 98 and our 95 for the first times, I was surprised how much friction there was all the way out. It felt as though the threads might be galling. So, I found an antiseize 'stick' at NAPA that's called Spark Plug Anti-Seize (765-2405) that was compatible with aluminum head engines and gave it a try. I've never looked back. The plugs go in and come out easier. I just use a little on the threads, not much at all. I beleive that not all antiseize compounds are compatible with aluminum heads, hence the warning in the FAQ's.

A vacuum will work fine as long as it has good suction and a small enough nozzle to get down around the sprak plug. It's usually fairly clean in their but you don't want to take any chances.

DEWFPO
--
1998 S90 068,300 and 1995 964 152,300

thanks champ!

you're like, well, an angel in a Volvo...

Thanks,
Al

I guess im bad but I never used anti seize. I heard that you don't want to use anti seize because it reduces head transfer from the plug to the head. Also I never keep plugs in there more than a year or so. They always come out very easy since I don't tighten them with a 3 foot long wrench. Don't get me wrong, Im not advocating not using anti seize. But I would like to know more about the advantages and disadvantages. I understand some mechanics recomend anti seize for all aluminum heads.
Thanks
Justin

i'm supposed to crush the washer???

i still have not seen them, they are supposed to arrive any day now...

many thanks

Dont worry its designed to be crushed. Don't worry it doesn't take that much pressure. You'll see what I mean when you have it in hand. Best of luck. Please let us know how it goes.