Hey,

Have any of you replaced your steering linkage joints? I noticed recently that IPD is selling them for lot of $$$$$. At any rate the feel of the steering wheel has always been jarring, and not nearly as nice as my wife's '92. I've done quite of bit of work to suspension so getting the actual feel completely tightened up would be great. My question is:

How hard would it be to get the two linkages off of the late model junker?

Any additional tips?

Josh
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Best Regards,

They are a real challenge to get off. It helps to drive some kind of wedge (aka screwdriver) in the slot to spread the end open a bit.

I've only replaced one (the lower) and it wasn't easy. Approaching from below, as AyeRoll explains, you've got to slide (knock, whack) the joint up the shaft. If the splines were clean and lubed it may be an easier job. You'll also need to be able to turn the steering wheel to be able to whack around the joint, so stands, rather than ramps may be called for. Make sure the stands are well placed and have backups just in case.

The joint on the '84 that I replaced seemed to be of a softer metal (more easily damaged) than the joint from the '81 donor. So, you may wreck a newer donor joint while removing it. On the other hand you can save $90 US if you're successful.

I found that the long (12"?) bar with the flattend end which came with the tire change tool kit helped in removal of the damaged joint by placing it between the joint and the stub and levering. This, however, was done on the bad joint so I didn't care if it got damaged.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans

I replaced my lower one, with parts from Groton (of course!).

That was a difficult job. You're beating pretty hard on a shaft that wants to move around in 3 dimensions. I was exhausted by the time I was done The U-joint has to slide WAY up the shaft to get over the stub shaft on the rack.

I didn't remove the upper although I started to. With the MC booster in place, it's really difficult (IMHO).

I was however dealing with a 200K mile New England car with rusty fasteners. Nothing wanted to move.

Your mileage may vary.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 230K, 88 744GLE- 220K, 82 245T-181K Also responsible for the care and feeding of: 88 745GLE, 231K, 87 244DL, 239K, 94 855GLT 189K

Groton sells them for 90 bucks a piece.

Is this any cheaper than you found at IPD?

Looks like an easy task to me, Im going to do a steering rebuild this summer (rack and linkage repairs) So Ill be following this thread to see what lies ahead!

Robert

Hey all,

I'm starting to think that it may be the wrong approach. After talking to a pal of mine I realized that I hadn't changed the innter tie rods since I've had the car. I have changed the outer tie rods though...So I wasn't fully rebuilt. The inner tie rods (two kinds depending on your rack) consist of a rod and a ball and joint...as the ball joint wears it no longer fits so well and after a time develops play. I'm definitely there. So I'd approach it from the rack first.

I have replaced the large rear a-arm bushes, ball joints, outer tie rods, end links and tightened down the crossmemeber; so with a litte more effort I should have the steering feel of an almost new 245; the new wheel skin from IPD will top it off nicely-ahhhh.

Josh
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Best Regards,

Definitely check the inner TR's. If even only one is bad you will have vague steering. The test is that once disconnected from the outer TR (tie rod end) the inner should not flop but hold its position straight out...no Viagra necessary. If the ball joint is loose enough that the TR can't support its own weight, get a new one - or two.

A shop manual or Bentley would have the correct procedure for removal wthout damaging rack innards.
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Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, 'my' 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)