My 2 door's top pins (driver's side is worse)are worn. With what would one replace the worn pins after pressing the old ones out? 2 door's extra length seem to accelerate this wear. Also, I remember someone mentioning a hole in the hinge for a grease injection, but seem to have no holes in my hinges. Anybody know the hole size in hinges with such capability?
thanks

Erik, I had really good luck using a light oil and heating the hinges with a propane torch. One side goes in the vice and the other in a crescent wrench or you hit it with a hammer. Whatever it takes to get the thing moving. Dab the oil in the gaps around the pin. After about 10 minutes of adding more oil, keeping it hot, and bashing the thing through its travel arc, you will probably have it moving pretty freely. This technique seems to "boil" out the rust. Be prepared to clean it well and sand blast before attempting to paint.

Doing this, I took all of my door hinges from frozen solid to flopping back on themselves. Havent noticed any ill effects.

Good luck,
Josh

Erik, I had really good luck using a light oil and heating the hinges with a propane torch. One side goes in the vice and the other in a crescent wrench or you hit it with a hammer. Whatever it takes to get the thing moving. Dab the oil in the gaps around the pin. After about 10 minutes of adding more oil, keeping it hot, and bashing the thing through its travel arc, you will probably have it moving pretty freely. This technique seems to "boil" out the rust. Be prepared to clean it well and sand blast before attempting to paint.

Doing this, I took all of my door hinges from frozen solid to flopping back on themselves. Havent noticed any ill effects.

Good luck,
Josh

Could be worse... In my XK120 service manual, the first step to even removing a door hing is to remove front wing... that is, take off the fender, which ain't bolted on... its welded and leaded and about 6' long.

If absolute worse comes to worse, have you considered drilling them out? I've never dealt with 122 hinges, so I don't know. Just a though... That's how I did it in teh Jag, and with good results. But it was a simpler design...

-Matt
--
-Matt '70 145s, '65 1800s, '66 122s wagon, others inc. '53 XK120 FHC

The Eastwood catalog has a hinge pin removing tool. It looks like specially made c-clamp, it might work.

My partts catalogue shows that the pin comes out, but mine didn't even after it had sheared(that's how long I waited before fixing them)Also I seem to remember seeing some that had a small screw on the hinge body that located the pin, keeping it in place. This screw may have been painted over.

I had to replace the whole hinge assembly, I'm not sure that the pins even come out. Never did manage to pull mine. Hva eyou removed the hinges from the car or are you trying to get the out while the door is still on?. Patrick.

Have you got the new pins? If not maybe you should look for complete
hinges. But remember, if you use heat, you are NOT heating the NEW pins.

A couple things to remember about using heat:

1. Don't use more than necessary to achieve the desired objective.
The more you heat it above about 500°F, the more you temper (soften) the steel.

2. In using thermal expansion to loosen things, remember it is the temperature
DIFFERENCE that does most of the work (although you do also dehydrate the
hydrated iron oxides [rust] that may reduce their volume). Therefore it is
to your advantage to heat suddenly and act immediately when the part is hot,
before the heat conducts to the inside part (the old pin). If you can have
the hinge in the press with pressure applied, and turn up your torch pretty
hot so you heat it quickly/suddenly, you'll have your best chance of
breaking it loose.

I remember once my grandfather watched from a distance as I worked with a
torch for a couple days trying to get a brake drum off my 1940 Ford pickup,
similar to the arrangement on the 122 but with a much longer tapered section
on the center of the hub. Finally on the third day as I was getting the
torch out again he came out with a teakettle of boiling water and a rag.
He said "Got your hammer?" I protested that I did, but that I had had the
hub almost red hot several times already. He said, "OK, get ready." and
wrapped the rag around the threaded end of the axle and then poured the
boiling water over the end of the hub. As soon as he had poured all the
boiling water over it, he took the rag off and said "OK, HIT it!" I did
and the brake drum popped off. With the boiling water, which has a very
high heat capacity, even though it isn't extremely hot, you heat the hub
suddenly, and for a couple seconds, before the axle inside gets hot, it
is a little bit looser.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US