My previous charge lasted almost a year. The last R12 charge lasted a few weeks. I don't want to spend big $ on new evaporator and/or condensor since I don't know how long I am keeping it. I am tempted to try the sealant gunk but would like options to consider. It hasn't been diagnosed regarding where the leak is.
Thanks.
1992 240 20 miles per gallon
1997 850 22 to 30 mpg
1993 Club Wagon 10.9 mpg

what needs to be replaced? are you worried about changing to 134? the 91-up 240s are 134 ready, only the 93 got it. i'd fix what's wrong, change to 134 and go. if you use a sealer, there will be many ac shops who will turn you away. we have sealant identifiers to prevent clogging the recovery machine. and the propane alternative is risky, very risky. there have been r22 blends with propane and other hydrocarbons that were created to replace r12. hence the need for refrigerant identifiers. get a 2nd quote from another shop. might be worth your while to fix it right. good luck, chuck.

I had just had my 245DL serviced with R-420a, it is compatible with r-12 and 134a and does not require the oil to be changed. It is 10 degrees colder than 134a. The part that made me do that is the conversion kit required for the 90-240 compressor. It needs a reroute to be able to use the 134 fittings because they do not fit behind the compressor with the output lines.

Search this forum under "Propane" here's my orig post, lots of threads.
One advantage is that you can use propane to find a leak using soapy water,
just as you would at home. Check around every fitting. WHen you find the leak,
you can vent the system to the atmosphere, it's legal no more harm than a cowfart.
Then you can decide what to do as far as sticking w R12 etc.

Nothing cheaper than propane, no vacuum system, easy to charge.
If you take it to the AC shop, you know whats going to happen to your wallet.
AC is not that complex as they make it out to be..... but be safe.

Financial circumstances and mostly curiousity got the best of me. My AC clutch smoked and burned up the electromagnetic coil- literally-.

So, my choices were
1) buy NEW compressor and NEW clutch combo and install and recharge with R12 $$$$$
2) buy new compressor and clutch combo and install and retrofit $$$$$
3) buy new clutch and recharge with R12 and hope the compressor was going to last $$$
--- OR---
4) buy new clutch and try hydrocarbon refrigerant alternative $

Yes, Door Number Four was callin me real loud.
After doing proper research with the proper authorities, I was advised that it was Legal, it was safe, and it was cheap. Real Cheap compared to R12

Just put on the new clutch, adjust the air gap, fab an adaptor and gauge to fill the system with proper Propane/Butane mix.

So far, 500 miles and it works fantastic. blows at least 40 degrees
all day long in 100 degree heat.

Total cost- $125 for NEW fcp groton clutch, belt and 'Autozone' cheap gauge. No need to vacuum the system before charging, make sure the R12 is evacuated properly.

Who Cares if the Compressor Dies? Its an experiment. I'll do it right next time. Maybe. It's an old car.
Who Cares if a Fire starts, I have my dual Halon extinguishers at the ready, and this Nomex jockstrap is keeping vital parts protected and warm.
Seriously, don't try this at home unless you know what you're doing, and have the proper safety equipment.

Why is the AC industry opposed to hydrocarbon refrigerants-
they work, they are inexpensive, and they don't harm the environment.
Conventional refrigerants and associated oils are all harmful/flammable/hazardous in contact with flame.

comments?