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Need advice on this bricks fate. (mindless ramblings ahead) 700 1988


Im going to try and keep this short and simple. My brick is a 744 1988 with 155000km driven.

The following needs changing:
Front suspension rebuild.
Rear axle.
Steering rack.
Possibly some wear items like rotors and pads.
Clutch.

Parts changed:
Ignition tuneup.
Timing belt and tensioner.
Center support bearing.
Oil, fuel and air filters.

Engine b230f and tranny M47: Runs and accelerates with no notisable hesitation and doesn't rattle or crunch when i change gears.

The body is mosty rust free, some parts need sanding and repainting but it looks good alround. no rust holes or such.

I can do all or most of the work my self but im unsure if i should. If i pour all the money and time in to this car what other expensive parts are left to die?

Trannys and engines aren't THAT expensive or hard to find. Im mostly worried about what other nasty surprises that could lurk deep down in brickland.

So what do you think? Would the volvo gods approve and give me many joyful miles or should i stop giving life support and just let it die?








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Need advice on this bricks fate. (mindless ramblings ahead) 700 1988

The expensive parts on my '85 are the wiring harness, the Mass Meter, the Computer, and the turbo hoses. The thing I found about volvo's is that some parts are built to last and are user friendly and other parts (like switches and interior plastic) can't keep up with age. Somethings drive me crazy - things that really shouldn't be plastic - and the biodegradable wiring is a pain.

I would check out the wire harnes at the A-posts - not sure if the bad wiring exists on the 88 but I believe it might - that stuff just rots away and then you are in for 300+ for the volvo harness (unless you spend a weekend doing it yourself which is the route I took).

My volvo is a wreck at the moment as I try to troubleshoot a rich running engine - but I love to work on machines and I get more joy out of tinkering in it than most people - I also have a great shop that helps me out with parts and knowledge. So I think your personality has a lot to do with it and if you have the time and resources - economically you never win with cars, used or new - you always feel like they are too expensive!








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Need advice on this bricks fate. (mindless ramblings ahead) 700 1988




Unfortunately the rear axle problem is more severe than a seal. I must admit i messed that one up. I didn't do that one thing that
you always MUST do when you buy used. empty and renew all fluids. I didn't drain the rear only made sure there was oil.

I trusted the local volvo tech that said "feh, you never need to refill or even check the rear", BIG MISTAKE.

After about 4000 km a humming noise from the rear began, not that loud but it was there. Support bearing was my first thought.

Indeed the bearing looked like crap but the noise was still there. So i turned my attention to the rear. What i got out of that axle was so black and thick you wouldn't even tarr roofs with it. think black gum with metal filings in it.

Flush and new oil didn't help. The damage was done and the sound is just getting louder. Broken bearings and worn gears.

So remember kids ( and older kids) ALWAYS CHANGE FLUIDS.








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Need advice on this bricks fate. (mindless ramblings ahead) 700 1988

Oh sorry to hear that. The diferential on a Volvo usuallly lasts several thousand miles without so much as a drop of oil needed - unless the car sits for prolonged periods of time and the seals leak, then driven for a while as you did without checking.
I would scout the scrapyards for a used rear end. If you can get someone to put it in for less than a few hunderd, you could be on the right path. It would be too expensive to have yours fixed, and there should be a lot of them in good condition out there.
Given the other major maintenance items, you may consider cutting your losses....
Sorry.
--
'89 245 Sportwagon, '04 V70 2.5T Sportwagon








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Need advice on this bricks fate. (mindless ramblings ahead) 700 1988

'differential on a Volvo usuallly lasts several HUNDRED thousand miles'
sorry, typo
--
'89 245 Sportwagon, '04 V70 2.5T Sportwagon








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Need advice on this bricks fate. (mindless ramblings ahead) 700 1988

Many of those are normal items: once done, the car will last forever.

If you fix this, do yourself a favor and change all coolant hoses and the radiator.

Use Redline in the tranny for long life and no wear. Once the pinion seal is renewed, use Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear oil in the rear end for similar results. Change the engine rear seal when you do the clutch. And use a rebuilt rack, not a new or DIY rebuild.

Most cars need major work at 100k miles. Those that don't get it are the ones dying sooner, not later.








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Need advice on this bricks fate. (mindless ramblings ahead) 700 1988

Give it life. If you like the car, it would be a great car to maintain.
At 155k km it is a youngster brick.
Most of the repairs are usual and expected except for the rear axle. Is it leaking and needs new seals or is it really broken?
Front suspension may only be a few bushings. Check which are bad, usually is only the outer control rod to support arm and rear control rod to chassis needs replacing. You shouldn't nees a tranny or engine for years and many more miles.
Enjoy it.
--
'89 245 Sportwagon, '04 V70 2.5T Sportwagon








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Need advice on this bricks fate. (mindless ramblings ahead) 700 1988

Hi there,
It all depends on u. If u r planing to do the work and enjoy doing that kinda a work i say u should save it.It is always better to keep up with maintance costa than having a new car with a monthly payment of 300.00$ plut full coveroge on it. I had a shop i used to do my work on my volvo but it burned down couple months ago.. i own a 1988 volvo 740 Gle non turbo engine and its water pump broke down. i took it to volvo dealer and plunged 300.00$ for a water pump and installiation. It really sucked when i know that i could have changed the stuff and get the same water pump from napa...
This is my .02 cents..
Sammy








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Need advice on this bricks fate. (mindless ramblings ahead) 700 1988


$300 thats got to hurt.

In sweden a pump can be had for $33 if you install it your self.







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