I am replacing the head gasket on my 1983 244T (296k miles. Valve job done at 120k miles). It developed a small coolant leak at the rear of the engine directly above the bolt that hold the heater pipe to the engine. I replaced the heater pipe (dealer still had it) and the water pump before I could determine that it was actually the head gasket. Couldn't see where the leak was coming from without droping the exhaust manifold and turbo. Anyway, I have the head off (head bolts were fun). The compression is still within specs but the car burns oil. The costs for the valve job and resurfacing the head, pressure test, etc. is $284 (this is the same shop that my volvo dealer uses for machine work. I have a good relationship with my dealer, part people and the service mechanics). However, since the head is off, what do I need to do to clean up the block? If I'm not rebuilding the engine at this point?

Also, (please answer the first question), how much of a pain is it for me to remove the remaining portion of the engine (yes, I have the bently manual) and get the engine rebuilt by the same machine shop (yes they will rebuild it) and for me to put it back together?

Thanks,

Lawren

1983 244T (296k miles, black, manual)
1995 850 T5R (91k miles, black)
1970 Plymouth Barracuda (340 Cuda, in-violet purple, four speed)

On an engine with this many miles it is a good idea to overhaul the engine. Bring the head back to specifications increases the vacuum and power causing blowby when accelerating and sucking oil past the rings when decel or idle. You might correct oil consumption from valve seals, but it could be offset by increases from other sources.

Of course all you may want to do is just correct the leak.

This is a car that I'm keeping. I bought it new. I've kept it up very well. last year I completely removed all exterior parts, moulding, bumpers, windows, etc. and got it painted Volvo black, Wow!. I think that the rebuild is something that I should take the time to do. I probably would regret not getting it done.

Thanks,

Lawren

I agree, the hardest part is over. pull out the block and get it rebuilt, because if you don't you will want to be going in there doing that in about 30K because you will have gotten sick of burning oil and by then maybe your compression will have gone down. As long as you plan on keeping this car for the long haul, do it, you won't regret it and besides it it will be like a new engine.

Good luck!
chuck
--
'88 244 174K, '87 BMW 325e 180K (used to feed a '84 245, '84 244, '85 744)

I think you are correct.

Thanks,

With the head and turbo already off & manifolds disconneted, you have the hardest part of the engine removal already done. I would go ahead & remove the block & have the machine shop restore it while you've gone this far. I would have the crank checked, trued & polished, bearings replaced, new wrist pins & bearings, new rings, new oil pump etc. Sounds like you need new oil rings anyway. Properly done you can get several hundred thousand miles more before next rebuild. Go for it! 83 Turbo is a nice ride you can be proun of for many more years!

Good Luck
Danny Mac

I like the way this is going.

Removing the engine shouldn't be much of a problem if I get a engine lifter, help and document what I removed and how, I think.

I think this is the way to go, now that just about every thing is already off the engine. Intake manifold and associated stuff, exhaust manifold, turbo. I need to remove the air conditioner compressor, power steering pump, starter wiring and other wiring, bolts to transmission mount, connection to axle, bolts to engine mounts, intercooler, radiator and it should lift out.

Thanks,

If you burned oil but the compression was good then the problem was likely in the intake valve guides (they were replaced, right?).
You may not want to do much of anything else except replace belts and hoses.

If you have access to a cherry picker (or can rent one) removal of the engine/tranny is not horribly difficult and perfectly possible for a first-timer. Just remember to take your time and double check everything before resorting to force (wires can still be attached when you SWEAR they were all removed).

If a shop is doing the rebuilding, you should have no troubles.

Some tips:
Ask the shop what they want you to deliver and remove what they don't want yourself... clean the worst of the gunk off first too and they will appreciate it.
Get a new clutch assembly.
Get new belt(s) and hoses, especially the vacuum hoses!
Don't re-use any gaskets or seals.
You may want to replace the clutch cable now instead of waiting for it to be a problem.
Inspect then lube or replace the speedo cable when it is easy to get to.
Try very hard not to open up any other assembly or it will take forever (oh, how do I know)!

Mike!

Great advice. Thanks,

Lawren