If the seat control switches are a bit dodgy they can be accessed by just prising up the button.You don't need to take the unit off.

Be careful there are small ball bearings and fine springs which sometimes come out with the button.
Lift out the moving contacts a tweak and a clean will usually get things moving again.The moving contacts contact a tiny pin just off centre,turning the contact round gives you a new surface.

To reassemble 'stick' the balls onto the springs with a little grease.

The stop switch can't be accessed this way,anybody know how to fix?Looks like a mammoth desoldering job to get at it!

Occasionally wires break off the circuit board,if tweaking the switch doesn't work you may need to detach the housing from the seat,detach the housing from the switch module and the turning it over you will see the wires soldered(or not) onto the terminal.

Hope this stops you from doing what I did,removing the whole dang seat before finding the easy way.

If you look in the FAQ it will talk about the relays (2 of them) becoming worn and iffy. This was my problem. I tried futzing around by resoldering all the points on the circuit board (many looked suspect) - no dice.

Then I read to bypass the relays and that worked. one relay is directly behind where power enters the circuit board at the top/front (black, orange, and red wires. The relay points to connect are directly behind the black and red wires. Looking at the board upside down (facing up, you sitting on a stool beside the car) that relay is the top right. There's one on the top left too, and you'll want to get the same top legs as on the other one. I actually used a dremel cut wheel and utility knife to cut into the black case to see the relays, but this is not necessary. Just test the points to solder with a jumper wire. One relay is for the forward/backward motor and seat-back tilt, the other relay is for the up/down on the front edge of seat and back edge of seat. Works like a charm now.