The left outer tie rod end on my 1988 240DL is getting loose and I want to replace it today.

I have done a tie rod end before but it's been like 20 years and it was on an American car (Actually it was in a '57 Desoto).

Anyways, how hard is this to do? Will I need to beat the old tie rod end out with a pickle fork? Are there any other tips or tricks I should know?
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Greg P. 1988 240 DL 'Olga' 170,000 miles

You might want to check the inner ones as well///Parts in that area tend to wear about the same..Jack car up some and move the wheel from right to left a few times and watch and see what moves.. The inner ones or actually they are called just the tie rods, may have a slight movement to them so watch close..

Below is a link for the Harbor Freight Pittman arm puller #36861. Perfect fit for the Volvo tie-rod end. I used it for strut replacement only in order to NOT harm the existing tie-rod ends with a pickle-fork.
link:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36861
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Jim (90 244DL 170K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring

To add to the other fine advice, go out about a day or so ahead of time and start soaking all the nuts/bolts in PB Blaster/Kroil etc. You will thank yourself later. Some of those can be ornery, if you do not have an impact wrench.

Greg - After you remove its nut, the tierod end MAY come off the steering arm with a sharp hammer blow. Personally, I feel that pounding near the steering arm with a hammer - even if you use a pickle fork - can cause damage. I use a tie rod end separator, which cheap (about $5 from Harbor Freight), quick, and effective.

Also, if you're only changing one tie rod end, I don't feel there is an AUTOMATIC need for a realignment, provided:

1. Your steering alignment was good before the replacement,
2. The replacement end has the same dimensions as the old end,
3. You follow previous posters' advice to mark the nut position on the tierod and reassemble to exactly the same depth (mark the nut position on the threads both circumferentially and longitudinally; place a mark on a nut facet to align with the longitudinal mark).

If the steering wheel is misaligned after the replacement, if you notice drifting, or if the tires wear unevenly, then spend your money on alignment. Otherwise, save it until you do a major suspension rebuild or purchase an expensive set of new tires!

You may want to go ahead and replace the right tierod end. The parts themselves are inexpensive. If one is bad, the other can't be too far behind. Experience from doing the left side and the tie rod end separator will make the job very quick.

Good luck!
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'88 244GL, '89 244GL, '90 244DL, '91 244, '92 244

The Volvo tie outer tie rod end is like all others...no secrets. Back off the locking nut and mark the threads with some white out or chalk, etc. so you can screw on the new end in the same position. Loosen the nut at the steering knuckle and run it out to the end of the threads but don't remove it. Whack the top of the tie rod end stud several times with a big hammer & it will come loose, or you can use a pickle fork (i've never had to). Screw on the new end up to the mark you made and tighten the locking nut, then install into the steering knuckle. You should have alignment done after completed. I would do both sides of the car now because the ends are cheap & you'll have to do the other side soon anyway.

Good luck!
Danny Mac

Greg,

Pretty simple procedure. Remove the rack boot big end clamp or tie and pull the boot back to reveal the ball/socket end of the inner tie rod. I use a large pipe wrench to free the rack end ball/socket collar from the end of the rack. It just threads on. When replacing the inner rod I clean the rack end threads and apply a little medium strenght thread lock, tighten it down with the the pipe wrench, then pean about 1/8" of the end of the collar down on to the rack end threads. There may be a end washer on the old tie rod that has been flattened over to lock the collar to the rack threads. Just bend that back before taking the wrench to it. Often it's just a peaned section of the end collar and that merely requires threading the tie rod off the rack end. I grease the area up with some Mobile 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease, replace the boot and zip tie it back in place. You'll need a front end alignment after all if done. This applies to Cam racks ... but I suspect the procedure is similar with the ZF rack though I've never replaced tie rod ends on a ZF. Hope this is helpful.