Well, exhausting the possibilities in between working on the interior, I decided
to look under the injector mounts bolted to the head. I had received 2 sets of
O-rings and used the skinny ones. I took them out and put in the fat ones,
while making sure to use the thinnest bakelite washers (~0.037" or so) and when
I started it up I had to give it gas to keep it running. In fact to get it to
idle I had to open the idle air bleed almost ½"! I'll put the electric Aux
Air Valve tomorrow and that will probably help some. I changed back to the
Manifold Air Pressure Sensor that had the cap intact but with a hole drilled
in it (since I found out that the cap location is also the wide open throttle
stop adjustment) and adjusted the inner screw all the way in, maximum lean,
from what I read on the web page to which I was referred to. Exhaust still
stinks at idle so I still have work to do on that. Maybe I am to where the
CO control on the ECU will have some effect since it is now idling well under
750 rpm. At least we have it to where we may try to drive it tomorrow, if
Ben can get the insurance taken care of.

Any further suggestions on rich mixture will be greatly appreciated.
It is NOT the cold start injector - it doesn't work at all. Right now it
is hanging out and the hose is hooked to a fuel pressure gauge. Another
cold start injector is covering the hole.

Thanks for all your kind help!
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US

George, I don't know what you've found so far, but here are some links to good D-jet info:

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/

http://www.icbm.org/erkson/ttt/engine/fuel_injection/d-jet.html

http://www.bmwcsregistry.org/Technical/D-jet.html

BTW - I see you are going to try adjusting the potentiometer on the ECU. My understanding is that you can only affect the mixture by a very low percentage (like about 3% - 5%) by adjusting it. Supposedly it's used to make very fine adjustments to get the idle emissions where they belong. But hey, go for it and see what happens.

I think you need to check the resistance across the MAP and Coolant Temperature sensors. Those are the two biggies in mixture control.

Good sleuthing, George!

The knob on the ECU should have a very noticeable affect on idle mixture (and *only* on idle mixture) if the rest of the system is performing decently. If it doesn't respond much to that, something else still isn't right.

I guess I should turn it leaner until it doesn't idle right (after warmup)
then? then back off a bit? The idle keeps blowing my garage full of
very stinky stuff. (The tailpipe points straight at my garage door.)
S'pose it would be good to use the Colortune for this?
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US

There should be a point where adjusting gets you the fastest, smoothest idle. Either leaner or richer from there will drop the idle speed. I've forgotten which way is which, sorry.

Yeah, the dern thing is mounted in a box under the seat, hard to get to
even with the seat off. We'll be after it in a few minutes.
Will post results.
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US

The MAP and the coolant temp sensor make the most difference in mixture. The air temp sensor makes a very subtle difference, probably not what you are suffering from. Check the resistance of the sensor at cold and warmed up - if it seems normal check it again at the computer (pull the multiplug and check between the appropriate terminals).

Very good. I think between your comment and Phil's I'll get this
critter doin' right pretty soon!
Many thanks!
--
George Downs, Bartlesville, Oklahoma, Central US