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Success with first repairs - apprentice wanna be 200 1987

SUCESS
I just wanted to post that I was able to replace my flame trap.
I've always quit so easy before. I'm really surprised.
I did have to take the top off the distributor to get to this thing. It's really buried.
Now if I can just figure how to tell when my belts are too tight and get rid of the loud squeaking when the air compressor turns on.

Is there a place where I can learn about the throttle body. I've read here that that's a common routine maintainence issue. By the look of the old Flame trap I don't think the previous owner knew to clean it out or replace it, so maybe he didn't ever do the throttle body either.

I've looked in my Haynes manual and they don't use these names for anything so I've not found it to read about it etc...

Again, thanks for all the support.











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    'Old Flame Trap' 200 1987

    Sounds like something wives everywhere would buy.

    One consideration in belt tightening is glazing. If belts have been slipping for a while, the surface of the pulleys can be polished like a mirror, reducing friction. In doing that, the sides of the V-belt also become glazed and burned on the surface, making the rubber hard and, again, reducing friction.

    Further tightening to get rid of the squeal can put stress on the bearings; water pump, AC compressor, PS pump in particular, shortening the unit's life.

    The way I deal with glazing requires me to sand, or scuff up, the pulley V's, then either sand or replace the V-belts. When I try to do it without removing the belts from the car, I'm usually disappointed with the results.

    You'll read in the manuals how maybe 1/2" deflection of the belt, between the pulleys, is normal tension. But in practice, you have to know what "normal" pressure is to place on the belt, to do this test-- not easy to describe. You'll push on it and see the accessories bending inward on their soft rubber mounts, figuring that's hard enough. But that, too could depend on the bushing condition.

    There is a tool, though I've only seen it in pictures, for measuring belt tension-- probably only used in training or on the assembly line I'd guess. Much better is five minutes with an old-timer in the business. My daughter has the advantage of having the old guy close at hand.


    --
    Art Benstein near Baltimore








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    Success with first repairs - apprentice wanna be 200 1987

    I just cleaned mine for the first time. Easy! Search the Brickboard archive for instuctions.








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    Success with first repairs - apprentice wanna be 200 1987

    It's pretty difficult to make the mistake of tightening your belts too much. The problem (especially if you hear squeaking) is that they are too loose. In either case the way to tell if they are adjusted properly is to push in on the belt at a point midway between the two pulleys. It should deflect by about a half an inch or so. If it doesn't deflect at all (rare) it is too tight. This could lead to some early bearing wear in the component (power steering pump, AC compressor, alternator, whatever it is) and decrease belt life. If it's too loose you'll get the squeaking and again early belt failure.

    Check the belts to your A/C and the one on the A/C going to the power steering pump just above it. If either is loose you can tighten them to make the squealing go away. If the adjustment seems good to you, then it's possible that you've got a problem with your AC compressor, like bearings starting to seize up. And that's a bigger problem than just a belt adjustment.

    I would highly recommend getting a Bentley manual. It's considerably better than the Haynes. With either manual, I think you would get a lot out of just reading through the first couple of chapters. There is a lot of great information in there about general mechanical procedures, tools, diagnosing electrical problems, what maintenance your car needs, tips, etc. The Bentley manual is especially helpful in the first couple of chapters. It's basic stuff that will take you many years to learn if you just rely on learning it by osmosis or on an as-needed basis.








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    Success with first repairs - apprentice wanna be 200 1987

    squeaking belts usually mean they are too loose, the squeaking is them slipping a bit untill the component gets up to speed. It's all deductive in car maintenance and repair.








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    Success with first repairs - apprentice wanna be 200 1987

    If you did the flame trap you can certianly do the TB service.Follow the intake hose to the intake mani.. There you will find the TB.secured with three nuts.Remove and clean well,have a new TB gasket avalible, reinstall. If you need more please post. B.G.
    --
    '78 244DL, 278k '83 245Ti 246k, '89 760Ti 180K,'86 245DL 320k








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      Success with first repairs - apprentice wanna be 200 1987

      great info...thanks.
      My bently manual is on order. That should make this stuff easier to learn.

      I got my belts to stop squeaking...yeah
      Now they're fairly tight. I used the ruler really to check that they weren't too tight. Building up those upper arm muscles tightening.

      The squeak at acceleration is gone for now. I don't have a lot of faith that it will stay gone. We'll just have to watch that balancer. I guess I don't have a lot of faith because it was so loud when my belts were loose.
      I guess they are very related.
      I'll give the TB a try tomorrow. If I get that finished. I think I'm done for a couple a weeks at least. Maybe by then it won't be so blasted hot in the middle of the day here in Texas.








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        Success with first repairs - apprentice wanna be 200 1987

        Glad you have the Bentley coming. Your Volvo life will be much easier.

        Another cause of belt squeal is pulley misalignment, where all three pulleys are not in the same plane.

        Neither the crank nor the water pump pullies will change alignment—but the alternator and PS pump are mounted on flexible pivot bushings that can yield to the pull of the drive belt(s) over time. This causes the belts to chafe on the side of the pulley groove and squeal.

        So while tight belts are good, too tight can put undue sideways pressure on bearings and mount bushings.
        --
        Bruce Young
        '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.








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    Success with first repairs - apprentice wanna be 200 1987

    To clean your TB

    1) go to IPDUSA's web site and download their PDF instructions file

    http://ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=511&NodeID=4159&RootID=629

    which you cqn print out (very handy with pictures, it will walk you through this maintenance)

    You can also look up KarmaticLove's post on TB cleaning which is very thorough, here on the Board

    http://brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=822626

    2) Buy some TB or carburator cleaner from your local auto supply store (around 2 dollars)

    3) order a TB gasket from FCP Groton (about 75 cents)

    It will take you about 30 minutes or so. The three nuts you have to remove are 13 mn. Be careful not to break the two plastic ends (clasp like) of the linkage -- ask me how I know. The instructions from IPD are very good, if you do a search here on the BB I am sure you'll get more tips.

    While you are there and have the TB off it is a good time to remove your idle control motor (the canister that is below the TB and held in a small rubber boot). Again do a search here on the idle control motor (IAC).

    Q tips and a tooth brush are helpful for cleaning the IAC.

    Good luck Dawn !
    --
    '89 244DL M47 162K miles








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      Success with first repairs - apprentice wanna be 200 1987

      That's great info. Tomorrow I'll look through it.
      I'm going to go find this groton site and get that stuff ordered.
      Thanks loads

      -dawn








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        Success with first repairs - apprentice wanna be 200 1987

        Groton Web address is

        www.fcpgroton.com

        --
        '89 244DL M47 162K miles








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          Success with first repairs - apprentice wanna be 200 1987

          I went to that address and realized it's in Ct!
          I think I can probably find a gasket here in Texas.
          Are they loads cheaper by mail?








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            Success with first repairs - apprentice wanna be 200 1987

            I think it will cost you between 2 and 3 dollars at the dealer.

            I suggest you get it from FCP Groton at 75 cents and order a few other maintenance items, such as the Mann oil & air filters, and a Bosch fuel filter. You may want to get the oil filler cap gasket (also in the order of 75 cents), they dry with time. I know you just did your flame trap, but you may want to get FCP's flame trap kit (2 dollars) for your next fame trap cleaning.

            All these little maintenance items will either more expensive at the dealer or of lesser quality at your local auto supply store.


            --
            '89 244DL M47 162K miles







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