THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVISE POST!!!!

FYI...

I continued to drive the car to work and back and no problems either way..
2 days in a row
( i dumped 2 bottles of carb cleaner in tank b4 leaving to work the 1st day)

I checked fuses inside car, all ok, checked for faulty codes, there were
non. My check engine lights comes on at start and turn off as normal.
I replaced the fuel pump relay about 1 year ago...because car would not start
when leaving work on a really hot day.. new relay took care of this problem.

Hopefully all is ok but one thing that stuck in my mind, when it died out
while driving at 30 mph, if "felt" electrical. Would the crank/rpm sensor
or fuel pre-pump give a faulty code??

One thing i did not mention earlier thinking they were not related, at
time of engine problems I had no brake lights(do not know if it just happened or was like this prior). Another car at a stop light informed me of this.. so from there (was daylight) I used my night lights by turning them off and on upon stopping. I came home, got on this websight, and read info on how to diagnose and then fused the 3 prongs on the "bulb failure sensor" which worked. Car ran fine today, do not know if related.


Thanks again for all the advise, can't say enough about how everyone's input has helped me.

I'd be interested in learning more about the fusing 3 wires...

I do not think a transient fault in the crank sensor would trigger a fault. At least the wife's cars problem with stalling did not and replacing the sensor took care of that intermittent stall. I would think you should if it is the original sensor. Not difficult, just dont break it or drop the bolt into the bell housing.