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That's a good one. I'd say you're looking for a loose wiring connection under the hood, especially a critical engine management signal. Your engine obviously leans more to the left during those g-force turns to the right and this would be even worse if one of your hydraulic engine mounts was shot. As soon as the engine dies there is no more torque from the engine, it leans back, the wiring moves back eliminating the fault and you are able to restart while still in motion.
I'd start with a quick inspection of battery connections and engine ground straps. Then I'd wiggle some of the wiring harnesses, cables and connectors while idling to see if I could cause the engine to die or stumble to pin-point the source (naturally be careful doing this). Rock the engine side to side and give the throttle a good blip to see if the engine leans excessively indicating engine mount problems which could be aggravating the situation.
I'd also check for any stored diagnostic codes at the OBD connector (check both sockets 2 & 6 -see the 700/900 FAQ section). Not all codes set the Check Engine light on the dash so there may be a stored code that might point you to a problem area.
Looking at my engine bay, which should be identical to yours, one thought I had was a poor connection at the AMM as it has a fairly short cable leading out of the fender wiring harness. It could easily move or even be strained if the air box or hose from the turbo changes position. Just for good measure, I'd remove that connector, use some spray contact cleaner on both ends, pack them with dielectric grease and reconnect it firmly.
Thinking more logically about the problem, one thing that will cause an engine to stop dead in its tracks is a loss of signal from the rpm sensor located on top of the bell housing behind the engine block. Its cable feeds up to a connector in the mid-left (intake manifold) area of the firewall. You should check that connector and follow the cable down to make sure it isn't damaged or loose. It should go through a plastic standoff clip to keep it safely away from the EGR and coolant pipes behind the block. If the wire is damaged or loose that could cause a momentary loss of signal or a short when the wire shifts position. The insulation can get crisp from engine heat near the sensor end and the axial wire can short to the shield or the shield can wear through allowing the wire to short to the engine. If nothing is obvious, perhaps you could try shifting the cable position a little down by the sensor using the stand-off clip to see if the problem becomes more or less frequent.
Hope that helps. Others may have more ideas. Let us know what you find.
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Dave -not to be confused with a real expert
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