Ok, I have unsuccessfully searched the archives and didn't find the info I need. My heater control valve in my 1980 242 is apparently not working. I went outside a little while ago and finally located where the valve lives under the dash. Question is, how does one go about removing/replacing this thing? It seems that the screw heads securing this thing to the car are not accessible from the driver's side foot well. The heater hose clamps don't seem to be very accessible either. Do I have to remove the whole centre console just to ge this thing out? Any special tricks or secrets involved? I would love to get my heat working, as it is going down into the 20's at night and only getting into the upper 40's/low 50's during the day even here in Louisiana. I would drive one of my other 2 cars ( a Datsun and a Ford) during this cold spell, but their heaters are not working either :(

Any hints, tips, tricks or secrets would be greatly appreciated.

billy242
1980 242DL/GT
1977 Datsun 280Z with Chevy 383
1967 Ford Fairlane 500 2 door sedan

Here's a link with instructions and awsome pics of how to do the valve replacement. The instructions that come with the ScanTech kit are garbage.

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=781119

I replaced mine last year and ultimately put it in upside down. Therefore it doesn't work too well, it doesn't cut the heat when the controller is placed in the cool zone. But it's winter in Minnesota now and that's fine. Others have remarked on how well the ScanTech replacement works (provided it's installed correctly).

Good luck and stay warm.
--
Steve in Minneapolis - 1987 245DL 255k

STeve in Mineappolis:

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!! This is kind of what I was hoping to see. This has been the most helpful response I have gotten on the heater valve. This makes things much more clear to me now.

So, it appears that the new style valve does not have a capillary tube, is this correct? I think that should make the new valve a bit easier to install.

Thanks again,

billy242

1980 242DL/GT
1977 Datsun 280Z with 383 Chevy motor
1967 Ford Fairlane 500 w/49k miles

You are correct sir. The new style valve is a very simple gate valve, no capilary tube, just a gate controlled by the temp lever. Yeah, it's a pretty easy install, a few contortions. I did mine in conjunction with blower motor so lots of the stuff was already out of the way. Seems easy enough according to those pics though.

Anyway...good luck.

-Steve

for the heck of it make sure the heater control cable isn't broken - work the heater control slide knob and watch the valve - easier to replace the cable than the valve

I have checked the cable - it is not broken and is working just fine. The cable is sliding freely thru the connector on the valve's arm, which is solidly STUCK in position. There is lots of blue-green corrosion all over the exterior of the valve. These 2 indicators lead me to believe that it is definitely a bad valve. My original question, yet to be answered sufficiently, is just how does one remove the darn thing from where it is at?

billy 242

I've never changed one. according to the bentley manual you disconnect the valve from the bracket it hangs on, then unclamp the two heater hoses that plug into it. the valve should then be free. as someone else has said be careful taking out the capillary tube that's attached to the valve.

for the heck of it make sure the heater control cable isn't broken - work the heater control slide knob and watch the valve - easier to replace the cable than the valve

bracket it is screwed to inserts with tang into plastic slot on heater box toward rear of car. you can pry bracket forward & out or use visegrip to back out sheet metal screws. dont get circle kit get original yes plenty avail

I replaced mine on my 81 242. I bought one at a boneyard for about $10. Replacing it required some careful work in tight quarters, but I was able to do it without removing anything more than the side kick panel by the driver's right foot and the side kick panel by the passenger's left foot. Have something ready to catch the coolant when you take off the hoses from the old one. And watch for sharp things around the area. Also, IIRC, I gained a better view of the situation by removing the kick panel to the left of the passenger's foot. I might have disconnected the other end of a hose over there to make it easier to work from the driver's side. I can't remember this for sure. However, I do remember that inspecting the situation from the passenger side helped a bit.
--
Thanks for all the help, 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock, B21F, M46; 86 244, 142k , auto.

I'm surprised that you couldn't find anything in the archives. Sometime in the last year someone posted their experience installing the new style valve. I think they had a link to another site where the whole process was described and illustrated with photos.

I don't know if I've seen an online article about the original style valve. With that the tricky part is the temperature sense tube which is coiled around a plastic stiffener with an attached grommet which has to be inserted into the heater housing and is a bit of a pain to work the grommet back into place. I didn't have a problem finding the original style at my local National Auto Parts (not NAPA, they might have but I didn't try them). The parts store didn't have it in stock but they are good about looking for a vendor. They ordered the lowest price they found and it turned out to be the original type, looked OEM. So I guess that just because the mail order/online outfits don't have it doesn't mean it can't be found. Good luck!
Mel

Is this the valve that controls the water flow from the heater hoses? If so, where exactly is it located. Sounds like it is on the driver's side footwell. What seems to be in the way? Is it the pedals, the plastic cover on the console or what?

Hello Billy:

The original part is no longer available-- there is an "upgraded" version available that resembles the late 240 style. The best place I have seen to buy it is FCPgroton.com-- that's where I got mine. They ship it with "photo essay" from a fellow Brickboard member (Mike Tatra) that he posted here! Installation is relatively straightforward, necessary contortions aside. The one miserable bit is adjusting the new cable length-- a frustrating trial-and-error process. The conversion kit price was under $35 and works quite well.

Good luck!

--
Herb Goltz, London, Ontario, Canada '92 245 w/109K mi