Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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Thermostat stupidity... and fixed... 140-160

What's new, you know how you all mentioned that stupid new T-stat i got? Well, i finally got around to putting the old one in it from my 74 engine, and viola, normal operating temperature all the time and much faster. Blah, what's new. Well, I also took a bunch of pictures comparing the two heads that i have off of my motors... Both F heads, one that was on my 74 motor, and another that was "redone" and then only used for 500 or 5000 miles. I'll post them up for looking at later, right now i've got some other stuff to attend to, i just wanted to point out that stupid T-stat's are stupid T-stats. And I hate the fact that i spent an hour driving to get a hold of that dumb broken T-stat and get a SEPERATE stupid gasket for it. And so, now my T-stat housing leaks... I'm going to jam another one of those gaskets in there to try and stop it when i get around to it. Peace!
--
new sig in progress...








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Thermostat stupidity... and fixed... 140-160

Kyle a new gasket is like a buck and a half. What is your time worth? Buy a new gasket and move on.....
Rhys








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i got one with the new t-stat, i'll check and see if it works better, but yeah... (NT) 140-160








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Thermostat stupidity... and fixed... 140-160

If your thermostat housing and mating surface on the head are relatively
smooth but it still leaks one thing you can do that will help is increase
the pressure on the gasket by lapping some off the housing surface.
(sometimes the housings are warped so they are smooth but not flat -
this treatment will help that also)
Put a piece of about 150 wetordry paper on a flat surface, like a tablesaw
table, etc and lap the faying surface of the housing, preferably in the
direction of a line that connects the bolt holes. Good to do most of the
lapping in the one direction until you are lapping the whole surface.
Once you get the surface cleaned up, put the thermostat with seal ring
in place and see if the seal ring stands up above the surface. Probably
0.020-030" is enough. That will make your housing press the ring tight
enough to make it seal. If it doesn't show above the surface, turn
the housing so that you are lapping at some angle to the previous direction,
maybe 45°, and lap some more. If you have a long way to go, you might want
to either use coarser wetordry or get a different housing. In any case,
if you can't clean up the corrosion, don't use the housing. They are plentiful.
When you install, just tighten the bolts enough to hold the housing flush.
If you tighten them too much you will bend the ears of the flange down and it
will NOT seal. (sort of like oil pan bolts)
Putting a gasket between the housing and the head is counterproductive
because it reduces the pressure on the seal ring, and the seal ring is
VERY effective when used properly, better than a paper gasket. Even an
old seal ring will seal fairly well if not cracked or squashed too thin.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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Thanks George, 140-160

Lapping sounds like a good idea... I've got my 74's housing also so i'll check and see if that's any better.

And guess what happened yesterday! My driver's side window fell down, and wouldn't go up, i just looked at it today, and got it to stay up, but it's dumb, but up. Good enough, oh well.
--
new sig in progress...








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Thermostat stupidity... and fixed... 140-160

another option to seal it that I have used ...

1. buy a sheet of thermostat gasket paper (cost about $1.00)
2. trace around housing & cut to size
3. coat with "gasket goo" & bolt it up.

.... worked a treat to supplement the rubber "O" ring (I guess my housing wasnt sitting quite flush with the block)

Dave








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Thermostat stupidity... and fixed... 140-160

Just apply a small amount of petrolium jelly (like what the older generation used on a baby's bottom) to the gasket, and it will seal like new. Did that on my 240 2-3 weeks ago, still holding.








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coolio, that'll probably work better, i'll look into it =D (NT) 140-160







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