Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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Recommended ATF 200 1990

Ever since I flushed the ATF and filled with Valvoline Maxlife ATF, there is some hesitation in shifting from 2nd to 3rd and only when the trans is hot. All others gears are OK. The ATF level is fine...checked it when the trans was hot while the engine running. I have heard from others on this board that it maybe the brand of this ATF. What would you all recommend? I would prefer to stay away from synthetics....for now.

Thanks,
Raj
--
90 BMW 325is, 98 BMW 528i, 90 Volvo 240DL








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Recommended ATF 200 1990

I have had excellent results with the Chevron/Havoline ATF and the Castrol ATF, and always do a full change at 20k miles.
--
'94 940 150k, '86 240 170k, '72 142 KIA, '70 144 KIA, '69 144 RIP








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Recommended ATF 200 1990

I did a flush and fill in our 1994 940 (AW71L) with...OK, I admit it...Walmart's "Tech 2000" Dexron III. 12 or 13 qts. before clean fluid started to appear in the trans' cooler line. Everything's fine. It shifts just like before, maybe a tad smoother on the 1-2 upshift.

Any good Dexron III should work, but if one brand seems to be giving problems, it's time to switch and see what happens.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, 'my' 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar 77 MGB, and numerous old motorcycles)








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I agree...... 200 1990


"Any good Dexron III should work, but if one brand seems to be giving problems, it's time to switch and see what happens."

Personally, I have had good luck in the past using synthetic Mobil One and regular ATF Castrol Dexron III.



--
90 244DL about 1/4 million miles - original engine/drivetrain :)








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Recommended ATF 200 1990

Other than being sure that you use a "name" (i.e, reliable) brand of Dexron (not Type F or G, for a '90), I can only suggest that you'll get real improvement from using a (likewise) "name" brand of pure synthetic.

Flushing and changing to a synthetic is really easy -- you can do it wearing a white shirt, really, as long as you have the right things (hose, clamps, or alternatively IPD's special hose, plus a wrench). It's costly, of course -- you have to invest in 12 to 16 quarts (frankly, I use 20 when I change over in a newly bought car), but it's worth it for the peace of mind.

Any reason, other than the obvious cost, that you don't want to do it? Afraid of problems? Maybe I, and others here, can put your mind at ease? Let us know.

Happy New Year.








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Recommended ATF 200 1990

More so I am afraid of the problem than the cost. I drive ~20k miles every year, so the car see a lot of highway driving. Since I already have over 200k on it, it was highly recommended by many mechanics not to switch to synthetic ATF. I do, however, use only synthetic motor oil (mobil) in all my three cars. I have expereince with Redline ATF, since that is what I used in my 90 BMW, but I made that switch when it had less than 100k on it.

Thanks,
Raj
--
90 BMW 325is, 98 BMW 528i, 90 Volvo 240DL








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Recommended ATF 200 1990


I switched mine to synthetic at about 175K. No problems...

--
90 244DL about 1/4 million miles - original engine/drivetrain :)








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Recommended ATF 200 1990

I have used Castrol with success. No complaints so far...
--
'89 244DL M47 162K miles







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