92 240 sedan b230f.
i read the faq about engine codes because my check engine light has been on.
and as the topic said i'm throwing a 113 and 232. i was just wondering what i should do.

the exhaust has been banging around for the past 3 days because i broke one of the exhaust rubber bands holding the first muffler on so i'm keen to say the oxygen sensor probably got banged around pretty bad (i was driving around in mexico and the zip tie i fixed it with lasted all of 3 seconds).

i was toying with the idea of resealing the injectors (could that fix an injector leak) but i want to get this taken care of first because i've got impressively bad gas milage (i don't entirely know the real gas mileage as i still can't afford to fix the fuel level sender)and the car seems to be chugging alot more than usual also sounding a bit tanklike

any help would be appreicated.

thanks again.
morgan.

it was my little friend the fuel pressure regulator (i grabbed three of them at the pick and pull for good measure). the car will peel out again and no longer sounds like a tank. the check engine light is off as well.

i'm in the process of resealing the 97,000 mile injectors that i grabbed from the junkyard and i'm going to install the new o2 sensor later tonight.

i figure a little preventative replacement will go a long way.

now i just have to tackle the creaking and vibration in the front end.


thanks again for everybodies help.

morgan.

Check the condition of the fuel pressure regulator. THere are a few things that could be at fault when these conditions are highlighted. 113 could be fault in mass airflow meter, bad O2 sensor, intake air leaks, flooding via broken pressure regulator, stuck fuel injector (rare but happens).

The other, 232 could be a result of a bad pressure regulator especially (very typical breakage), or other causes such as a simple fault in one of the previously mentioned. These messages are kind of ambiguous (lean OR rich) but you can trace the components relatively easily.

Based on the fact that the car is chugging and sucking gas, I'm going to venture a guess that the pressure regulator has broken, or there is a stuck injector. In that order. However, the O2 sensor causing a bad reading can lower mileage as the engine compensates for bad readings inappropriately.

-Chris

then i guess in my volley of getting stuff i'll throw an fpr on the list.

If you didn't order it yet, you can tell if it crapped out on you. Pull the vacuum hose. If it has raw gas in it, that is a problem. If it just smells like gas (but doesn't actually have any gas in it) that is not a problem. They rarely fail other than just getting a hole and letting gas pass through thte vaccuum hose.

If you find an answer I'd love to know it. I've seen these codes posted many times over the past few months since my car gave them off as well. No one has gotten an answer though.

always what i love to hear. hehehe.

i'm realizing i didn't bother to search.

i'm going to pick up an oxygen sensor later tonight and get some spare injectors from the pick and pull.

i'll post my results.

I can't take credit for this, but I want to share it with others. So before you work on the injectors, AMM or Oxygen sensor, try cleaning the ground connectors on the intake manifold. As I write, it has worked for me.
ALTNRG

The one item that all the codes in the vehicle had in common is the ground for the computer.

Injectors need a good ground to pulse according to the computers signal. How does the computer know the injectors are not firing properly? The only thing that can be measured is the current drawn by the injector as it fires. Ohms Law applied. If resistance is up or down, more or less current is drawn, computer thinks injectors are bad.

If the O2 sensor is compensating for a rich or lean mixture, what is causing the mixture to go lean or rich? A poor ground increases or decreases resistance for the injector so it opens for a longer or shorter period, resulting in a rich or lean mixture. O2 sensor compensates, computer issues code for problem.

How does the computer know the idle switch is not grounding? It can only compare it to another ground, which happens to be via an internal route, which also happens to be the ground for every other ground the computer needs. Since the switch on my vehicle checked as 0 ohms to ground with the switch disconnected, the only item common to all three was bad computer ground.

What I did was:

Removed, cleaned and reattached the two ground points for the computer on the manifold.

With battery disconnected, removed the connector to the computer and the computer from the auto and sprayed the connectors with electrical contact cleaner, air blasted dry, reinstalled and reconnected.

Removed and cleaned the grounding "loops" near the computer connection.

During that same disconnected battery time, removed and cleaned the battery negative to block connection and the ground strap between the Valve cover and body at the right rear of the engine.

Have not seen an engine code or light since.