I'm working out the clunks in the suspension - thank you everyone!!
('85 245)

The brakes are the next order of business:

I've got 2-3 frozen pistons in total - instead of working them over, I'd like to try uprading the rotors and calipers... drilled/slotted and 740 calipers(?)... I really don't know what's involved, I thought I'd start here.

The more info/comments the better!

+ Mike H. +
PDX

Hi. Several things:

You can easily upgrade to vented front rotors of the later year 240's. Just buy new rotors and calipers -- it's a direct bolt in and easy (not to mention hooking up the lines to the new calipers and flushing the fluid).

You can also look for rotors that are better (but not larger) than stock -- e.g., slotted and/or cross-drilled (e.g., ATE "PowerDisk" rotors); as well as better pads (e.g., PBR). But there are no higher-performance calipers (and the stock calipers are really good, four-piston units anyway), or larger rotors, that I've ever seen! And there's no room for them anyway unless you commit to larger wheels and tires, too.

The 700's brakes are NOT an improvement. 200-series calipers are bolted and stationary, and have pistons on both sides of the rotor, for best performance. In contrast, the 700's calipers are of the "floating" kind, meaning that they slide back and fourth along a metal rod (or "pin") because they have pistons on only one side, and the caliper's body has to move sideways with each brake application to squeeze the rotor on both sides. This movement twists the caliper, and they tend to bind unless the pin is kept will lubricated with anti-sieze. You can draw your own conclusions, but the 700's calipers are prone to problems, and I don't know anyone with a 200 who would want the 700's symptoms.
Also, the 200's calipers are so easy to affect a pad change -- not so with the 700's calipers.

The 200's calipers can last almost forever, assuming they've been well-maintained, which mostly means just annual brake fluid flushing [I just did a brake job (new rotors and pads) this weekend, and these original calipers are still great even after 20 years and 202,000 miles]. You've got a good system, and I suggest sticking with it. Just go to vented rotors (and the requisite wider calipers to accommodate them), and pick slotted and/or cross-drilled rotors and better pads, if you want something a little better.

Good luck.

Would 740 calipers actually fit? Someone please answer that for us.
Do 740 calipers need to be removed to change the pads?
240 calipers stay on the wheel if only changing pads.

Is it feasible to swap solid 240 rotors for 240 vented ones, and swap the calipers for a newer 240 version also??

No to the first 2 questions; it's academic, anyway, 'cause 740 brakes are NOT an upgrade from 240.
--
Jim McDonald

I would agree, Jim, after seeing the brakes on my nephew's 740GLE.

Most all 260's and 240 Turbo's have the Girling vented fronts that the thread author seems to be looking for. From what i can see, swap rotors/calipers directly if you have Girling non-vented front. I would tend toward purchasing new rotors, and sleuthing calipers from a donor car. Then begins the bleed, bleed, bleed dance. See my other rants concerning the three hose bleed.
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80 262C Coupe- (FSO black, M46, original) 82 244GLT- (auto)

I agree, you can probably just swap over the rotors and calipers. Should work TTBYMK.

240's have 4 piston front calipers, 740's are only 2...

I will add one thing. You can simply buy later 240 calipers and rotors. All later 240's have Girling calipers and vented rotors. In fact, your 85 might have this setup. Check www.fcpgroton.com for the specifics. If that's the case, then buying high performance rotors and pads might be your only upgrade option....


--
90 244DL about 1/4 million miles - original engine/drivetrain :)