Volvo RWD 444-544 Forum

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B 16 Rear Main Seal leak 444-544 1960

uid 5322's pic
posted by  alschnertz on  Mon Jan 24 09:48 CST 2005
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:32 CST 2014
[RELATED]

I replaced the rear main last year but it continues to drip...more like hemmorage. There does not appear to be any leaks from the camshaft plug or the oil pan gasket. The engine compression is about 165 psi so I don't think the problem is excessive crankcase pressure.

The factory part is two piece felt seal that has a rectangular cross section. How do I avoid having it "bunch" up when sliding it into the groove of the main seal housing which is round? I think that must be the root of my problem.

What is the proper way of installing this felt seal?

--
'86 745T, '72 144E, '70 145S, '68 122S Estate, '60 544








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    B 16 Rear Main Seal leak 444-544 1960

    posted by  someone claiming to be 4 Volvos on  Mon Jan 24 11:03 CST 2005 [RELATED]

    I am not sure that if you can do mthis to a B16 but we used to install the new flange that uses the neoprene seal and ended the leaking problems on the B 20 engines.You can also have your flange milled out to accept the "new type seal" if it fits your crankshaft.








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      B 16 Rear Main Seal leak 444-544 1960

      posted by  copterplt on  Mon Jan 24 19:51 CST 2005
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      last visit: Thu Oct 31 20:39 CST 2013
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      I don't know if the B-16 engine has a rope type rear crank seal but if it has that type,what you need to do is to go to you'r local auto parts place and look for a rear main seal tool. It is made of a fine braded wire and has a device like the finger puzzles you stuck your fingers in as a kid.You use it to rotate the seal in place.The best thing to do is to loosen the crank mains so the crank will drop a bit than place the tool over the top of the crank -thru the seal grove-put the seal in the capture end and pull the seal thru the grove as you rotate the crank in the same direction. Before you do this get a small file and take the sharp edge off the entry side of the seal grove.








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    Did you soak it before installation? NT 444-544 1960

    posted by  Ron Kwas on  Mon Jan 24 10:44 CST 2005
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 04:03 CST 2014
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      Did you soak it before installation? NT 444-544 1960

      uid 25070's pic
      posted by  Barongrey on  Mon Jan 24 12:55 CST 2005
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      last visit: Wed Dec 3 15:46 CST 2008
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      Exactly my thought. It works much better if soaked in oil overnight, then pressed out before installation. It becomes much more pliable and you should be able to put it in without crumpling it.

      Also, you might try using some blue Permatex sealant to fill in any accidental galleries or voids.

      Good Luck!








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        Did you soak it before installation? NT 444-544 1960

        uid 5322's pic
        posted by  alschnertz on  Tue Jan 25 01:03 CST 2005
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:32 CST 2014
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        I did oil the seal prior to installation about the same amount that you would oil an air filter for a lawnmower etc.

        I guess I'll give it an overnight soak for the next try, maybe that will soften to make it more pliable.

        I can also try Permatex against the block and between the upper and lower seal housing. It was a NOS gasket kit, but for all I know, the kit could have been 30 -40 years old and been suffering from dried out gaskets. There wasn't any obvious problems though.

        Thanks again for the input.
        --
        '86 745T, '72 144E, '70 145S, '68 122S Estate, '60 544







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