Was wondering what oil people used? I am new to changing it myself, and plan on using mann filters. What other stuff shoud I do when I change the oil? What would a lube job entail? Can coolant just be drained and repaired, or would it be a waste of time? Thanks -

A good friend of mine is a mechanic for an area fire department. The life of their equipment engines has been considerably lengthened (as in DOUBLED) since they went to the Shell Rotella 15W-40. He swears it cleans the crap out of an engine, gas or diesel, better than anything he's ever seen.

If you try it on a change, and it immediately turns black, that means it's doing its job ! Remember, that's garbage that's no longer in your engine ! You might want to shorten the change cycle the first time if it is (maybe 1500 instead of 3000). Then see if it takes longer in the future to turn dark.

I bought a '95 964 with 97K on it, and used the Rotella T for the first change. It was literally coal-black in 100 miles ! Changed it prematurely; still turns dark, but nothing like the first time. NO visible sludge in the top of the engine. I go 3000 between changes now.

He knows a heck of a lot more about engines that I could ever know, and he swears by the stuff......and his own personal vehicles are in top shape, as well.

Granted, the syns (Mobil I, etc.) are good -- but you have to decide the cost-benefit ratio, given your finances, the age/condition/retention period of your car, etc., etc......

syn. and change every 12-18 months or 10k miles. I have been doing this in my 940 for half a million miles and my engine is perfect.

regards,

Lane

To say that synthetic is 10 times better is errorenous at best.

FWIW, Shell Rotella T, although conventional in nature, is hydrocracked (refined) to a much higher grade than regular conventional oils. Their properties are can even exceed lesser "synthetic" oils (many so-called synthetic oils are nothing more than hydrocracked conventional oil; Syntec is the #1 liar in this aspect.), and nearly to the extent of a real synthetic oil.

Along with other "million-mile" oils like Chevron Delo 400 and Mobil Delvac, they are designed as an extended drain oil, and doubling the interval is usually fine. OTOH, some "synthetic" oils are not designed as extended drain at all. Read the labels for the proper ACEA certifications.

-- Kane
--
Blossom II -'91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles -'74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup -'86 245GL/AW70
The Wayback Machine -'64 P220/M40 ... The ParaBox -'90 745GL/AW70

sample to titan labs for testing and It came back good in all respects.Keep in mind the 940 only holds 1 gallon and that oil is going through that engine 2 times to 1 in most engines, IE. my 850 bmw is a v-12 and holds almost 8 quarts.
When someone says 10 times better, faster or smarter than something, It is normally a figure of speech.

Regards,

Lane

Wow, thanks for the great information. honest and helpful. Regarding the coolant, I meant replace, not repair. Can I just drain it and replace it? Would that be beneficial, also should I only use volvo brand coolant? The car has 141k miles. Runs great, it seems. Want it to last another 140k.

Check the 700/900 FAQ in the pull down Features section at the top of the page. Great info on coolent, though there are a few more choices available now.
I have started using the new Prestone 5/150 extended life formula ( yellow/green in color) that they claim is compatable with all the different stuff out there. Makes it easier on me keeping up with a fleet of 6 vehicles to not have a different coolent for each one.
--
'94 940 150k, '86 240 170k, '72 142 KIA, '70 144 KIA, '69 144 RIP

>>>> Was wondering what oil people used? I am new to changing it myself, and plan on using mann filters. What other stuff shoud I do when I change the oil?>>>>

I also use Mobil 1 10w30, cost ~ $22 after tax at Wal-Mart for 5 quarts (you actually only need either 4 or 4.5 quarts), Mann filters (really a bargain, only $4 or $4.50 each), and a new copper crush ring each time (~ $0.50), so ~ $27 or so. For comparison's sake, at the quick lube shop near my work, they charge $55 for a basic change with Mobil 1, and that's with a generic filter and probably no crush ring. When you buy your filters, buy as many copper rings as you buy filters, so you'll always have one when you do an oil change.

Anyway, here's the steps I do when I change my oil, it's pretty basic but it's what I do:

I first pull my car up onto ramps. You don't need ramps, but it makes life easier. After laying down a few sheets of newspaper, I unscrew the drain plug while holding up the catch basis, after 4 or 5 seconds the flow slows down and I can set the basin on the ground. When this has slowed down I unscrew the filter (again holding a second catch basin up), I've never had any trouble taking it off by hand. If your filter is really stuck, just stab it with a screwdriver and use that as leverage to get it to twist off, you don't need those fancy oil filter grabbers (and yes, I have a turbo which is supposed to be hard to get the filter off of). Anyway, catch the oil from that, let the car sit with two catch basins catching the oil for 20 minutes or so.

While this is draining I get an empty plastic soda bottle (either 2 liter or 24 ounce, whatever size), cut the top third off, and give it a quick wash and then thoroughly dry it. This is my funnel when I will add the oil later, it works great.

Then I get back underneath and dip a fingertip into the used oil and rub it around the gasket (the rubber part) of the new filter, then put that on the car, hand tightening it as hard as I can. Using a new copper crush ring, I put the bolt back on the oil pan, making sure it's tight, but not using all my force to tighten it, if you know what I mean. Then, using the plastic soda bottle / funnel, I add the oil, pull the car off of the ramps, let it run for 30 seconds or so. After the first oil change, assuming you keep the 1/2 or 1 quart of leftover oil in the jug, you'll have an empty jug. Just pour the waste oil into that (again using the soda bottle funnel), put the cap back on, and the next time you go to Wal-Mart, Autozone, or whereever, take that with you and (at least around here) they'll take it for free.

I change the oil on my Volvo with the Mobil 1 every 3,500 to 4,000 miles. I know that most people change it at longer intervals, I dunno, I just wouldn't feel comfortable changing it any longer than 4,000 miles.

As for what a "lube job" actually entails, I'm not really sure.

By the way, for my '99 Honda Accord, I use Castrol GTX 5W30, with generic Fram filters. I've been trying to find a place to buy Honda filters at a reasonable price (~ $5 or less), haven't found one yet.

I have been using Amsoil 0W30 for the past few years. Before that it was Mobil 1. Always synthetic for me and I have the experience to back it up. I've posted this before. The cooling fan failed in my Mom's 940. She was on a NYC bridge stuck in traffic in 90 degree summer weather and she kept driving. She turned on the heat to help cool the engine. It was so hot that all of the vents melted. She proceeded to drive the car another 100 miles that way and then drove it home. Upon getting home she took it to the dealer. Every seal in the engine was burned up. They changed the seals, changed the oil and trans oil. The car is still on the road today - 9 years later. That was with Mobil 1 10W30.

Mobil 1 can hardly get any better PR than this story.
--
Norm Cook Vancouver BC; 1989 745T 202,000KM

Hi 940v40,

I use Amsoil (full-syn) 10W40 in my turbo and Shell Rotella T 15W40 in my non-turbo. I change the Amsoil every ~8K km (5K mi) and the Rotella every ~5K km (3K mi). When you change the oil use a new crush ring on the drain plug. I got magnetic drain plugs from IPD for XMas too :) As mentioned, the only lubing that's needed is door hinges, latches, etc (white lithium spray works well). When you change the coolant it would be a good idea to mix distilled or deionized water with the coolant instead of tap water. Also, if you might want to consider a cooling system update too, as the rad, hoses and heater valve are probably nearing the end of their lifespan if they are original.
--
Chris. Halifax N.S. '91 745Ti, 291K km and '91 745 NA, 388K km.

I wouldn't use anything but a top of the line synthetic engine oil. If I couldn't, or wouldn't, get AMSOIL, I'd most likely use Mobil 1.

Change the coolant, particularly if you have no records.

Mann filter and whatever 10w-30 is on sale at the time. Prefer Havoline or Chevron but Shell or Mobil work well too. I have had no oil related issues in any of the 3 Volvos I had(I now have 2 after selling my 93 945 NA). I concur with the 3-5K change interval. I have also not had any problems flushing the cooling system and refilling with any brand of green anti-freeze at a 50/50 mix.
--
93 945 109K , 94 940 106K ,98 V90 89K

I have a 1994 940T and 1990 240 (featured in VCOA mag) and I change every 5,000 miles, I use Moble 1, or Castol, or Valvoline full synthedic, whichever is cheapest at the time, and Bosch filter #3321 that Auto Zone here has. 140,000 miles and no oil related problems.

Good Luck Buddy
Park

Use syn. oil 10-30 or 10-40 and change at 10k intervals. I have been doing this for 12 years and I have 503k and that`s not a typo. At one time I changed at 20k but went back to 10k. I just bought a s80 and will be changing at 15k

regards,

Lane

For my Volvo I have been using Castrol GTX 10W30.
--
Norm Cook Vancouver BC; 1989 745T 202,000KM

I have been using Castrol GTX 10w30 in my 94 940 na changed at 3-5k intervals, and that may be changing to 5w30 soon if the weather does not moderate. If I had the turbo ( I wish!), I would use a full synthetic. This one has developed a small rear seal leak, so I think I will stay with the conventional stuff. My 86 240 is filled with Shell 5w40 Rotella synthetic changed at 5k, it is leak free. There are no fittings that I know of that need to be greased. Just door, hood and trunk hinges etc that need a little lube now and then.
--
'94 940 150k, '86 240 170k, '72 142 KIA, '70 144 KIA, '69 144 RIP

Dear 940v40,

Good p.m. and may this find you well. Many - but not all - prefer 100% Synthetic Oils (e.g., Mobil 1). Many also use Mann filters.

When changing the oil, a new copper crush/sealing ring should be put on the oil pan bolt. A used ring should not be re-used, absent some dire emergency. These rings cost about $0.50.

Coolant should be replaced once in two years, absent some specific problem. I don't know how to "repair" coolant. On the B230F engine, there is a coolant drain on the passenger side of the engine (USA/Canada models), relatively low down. It looks like a short tube. It is opened with a wrench (I don't recall the size).

See the FAQs, under FEATURES, above, for the on-line service manual. If you're new to 940s, you'll find lots of useful info.

Post questions at will. The only stupid question, is the one not asked.

Yours faithfully,

spook