Recently someone posted instructions on re-fitting the rubber horn ring in the steering wheel using a bit of mouse pad, cut to size.

No amount of searching on "120", "horn", "mouse", or variants thereof brings up any link, so could the kind person, or people, please post them.

Basically my fuse is fine (reverse lights and brake light work), but the horns don't sound. The wiring from horns to relay seems fine, so I figured perhaps it's the contact in the steering wheel.

Thanks. Beep beep.

Tom

I just did this over Christmas- my horn was hard to get to sound, had to push the ring just right, etc.) t's pretty simple (though do Ron's test first to make sure it really is the horn contact that's the problem). It's just a couple phillips head screws then three tiny circlips- be careful not to lose those! There is a spring-loaded contact at the end of the wire coming up inside the column, which I think was actually the problem in my case- I added a washer to it to raise it a bit and make the contact more secure. Cleaned up everything really well and made a new ring out of some old neoprene wetsuit material. As Ron says, like a mousepad, this will eventually deteriorate, but it will still last a long time (the wetsuit I cut it from is at least 15 years old and showed no deterioration- just a bit of mold!). Use one of the contact rings to draw a pattern on the neoprene- you'll have to then cut it a bit smaller than the drawn pattern. You'll also want a hole-punch. A pretty easy task, and you can hear the results immediately!
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Tom NYC

Tom;

Before taking things apart, you should confirm that the steering wheel switch is the source of the problem *...with IGN ON, ground the black wire coming out of the steering box... ref wiring diagram: http://www.intelab.com/swem/122S%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg ...if horns sound, that pretty much confirms it.

I remember the "mousepad" thread too...there's not really that much to it...remove the horn switch assembly by removing the two big phillips screws from the back of the steering wheel which hole the chrome piece on...then the whole assembly comes off in your hand. Remove C-clips to gain access to foam...clean all the old foam off and replace...but I prefer RTV to mousepad material...mousepad will oxidize again, RTV is much more stable over the long haul.

* Suggested reading regarding upgrading to a horn relay: http://www.intelab.com/swem/hornupgrade.htm

Cheers ("Beep Beep your A**")

I was the instigator of the horn insulator thread. It was a 1/2 hour job. I stole my cube-mates mousepad (!!!) and it worked great. I did make sure it was the contacts and not the horn itself before I went to the minor trouble of pulling the steering wheel apart. Good luck!

ml