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Question for Walrus3 and maybe Sstef 200

Hello George,

Thanks for your reply. Why do you think the B21E Advance Curve would be better than the B21A Curve? While the Engines Blocks are the same, the Pistons are different, Compression Ratio is different, Heads are different, Camshafts are different, Spark Plugs are different, thus Timing settings are different. So, I would like to dig into your reasoning a bit more. I feel if the B21A Bosch JFU4 Distributor Centrifugal Flyweights, Springs, and Vacuum Advance are installed into the B21E JGFU4 Distributor, then the Advance Curve should be pretty close to B21A engine specs. I have graphical copies of both Advance Curves, for the B21A and B21E. They are significantly different. I feel if I use an incorrect advance curve then at best, the economy and perfomance may suffer, at worst, I may end up with detonation, which could damage the engine. Your thoughts or insights would be appreciated. I could e-mail you the two graphs for your analysis, if you like.








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    Question for Walrus3 and maybe Sstef 200

    If there is a potential benefit and you can drive something else while
    you do it I can understand the desire; I can rarely leave well enough alone :)
    This is a b21a with Zenith, right? A cam? Grimshaw recommends a heavier
    cam for performance IIRC. To me, the beauty of the b21a is that it is
    apparently designed solely for reliability; the fact that it goes is
    almost incidental to the fact that it keeps going.
    Smallest bore and compression of the 240s (unless a b19 was equipment - same block?), lightest cam, low pressure mechanical fuel pump, rather low horsepower but really twisty.
    Since I just want to get where I'm going (and back) I don't much mind that the car is a plodder. Everything is done right on it.
    The power does everything required, safely, and the balance of the total design is one of the most enjoyable aspects of a 240.
    I look forward to hearing about any modifications. Watching the tennis I am reminded of pleasant car-working weather. It is cold as Hades here, but a b21a is fine in the cold :)
    --
    Stef - 81 245 B21A M46 319000km "fat chrome" roofrack








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    Question for Walrus3 and maybe Sstef 200

    Both distributors achieve full advance at around 3500 RPM. From there they are the same and that's where you make power. Centrifugal weights always err on the conservative side, and they are simple to the point of archaic, so a few degrees either way as they achieve full advance is not going to matter at all.








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    Question for Walrus3 and maybe Sstef 200

    I agree with Mike. If you get detonation you can certainly adjust the initial
    advance to greatly reduce or eliminate it and it should not affect overall
    driveability.
    Also every job you do on a distributor entails some risk. Given the choice of
    using the distributor as is, even if the curve is different, and making
    major conceptual changes in its operation, I'll vote for "as is" every time!

    --
    George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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    Question for Walrus3 and maybe Sstef 200

    You guys may be talking apples and oranges.

    If you are keeping the "A" setup: cam, carb., exhaust; then keeping the "A" curve would be most effective.

    If you are altering the cam, carb, exhaust, etc. for increased flow/performance then the "A" setup will severely limit your output (may even make it worse than it would have been "stock").

    On the other hand, a factory engine is a compromise of parts assembled under more-or-less controlled conditions to satisfy a large number of customers. These parameters leave much to be desired in the performance category.

    I think you ought to try the "E" setup first. If you don't get detonation you will likely get more pep. IF it doesn't help or you don't like it you can always build it into an "A" as stated.

    --
    Mike!







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