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Hello Gil,
some comments.
4. the best way of removing the r12 oil is to take the compr out and pour it out. it's good to do this so you can measure and know how much is going back in the compr.
the damn thing's heavy while lying on your back, especially when reinstalling it.
however, the compressor is easier to remove after a few times because you find out what needs to be removed in what order (nuts, bolts, etc). if this is your first time, it will probably be difficult, especially trying to realign the compr & p/s belts with the crank pulley (harmonic balance).
* you will need to remove the compr from underneath.
* four bolts secure the compressor to the a/c bracket.
* three are easy to get to.
* the last bolt in the back is harder to reach. the bolt is a pan or rounded bolt, so you have to take the nut off you will need long extensions on your rachet with a universal angle (sears has one) to put the socket on the end of it. i believe it's a 13 mm bolt.
* Robert's right, be sure to have spare acc bushings, just in case some of yours are bad, bent, broken--i have read that poly bushings are too stiff and don't absorb the vibration as well as the rubber black bushings, but the poly bushings last longer.
tools to remove the a/c discharge and suction hoses to the compr: i used a plumber's wrench, the one with the long rod and T at the top. the wrench end swivels.
be sure to loosen the hoses first before removing the compr.
6. for me, all of the kit o-rings were enough to do the retrofit job.
5. the orifice tube, if that's what you are referring to, is for the later models that uses the gm-style dryer. these cars do not use an expansion valve.
one place of leaking are the hoses at the compr. be sure to tighten enough. it's kinda tight in there. that long, skinny pipe wrench is the only thing that can reach down behind the compr.
regards,
byron golden
86 245
92 245
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