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Every time I changed transmission fluid in my 1991 240SE station wagon, it bothered me because there was still a lot of old fluid in the torque converter. People suggested so-called "power flush" of the transmission system. I kind of understand what it is but wonder if there are any tricks in doing that.
Would appreciate any tips on that.
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A power-flush is basically a transmission shop rip-off -- you don't need a external machine pumping fluid when your transmission can do that.
I've found the flushing the transmission is one of the easiest, least messy maintenance jobs you can do on your car -- in fact, you can do the whole thing wearing a white shirt and tie.
As for equipment, I'm happy having spent a few extra bucks to buy a hose that IPD sells specifically for this, as it's got the right fittings -- but a lot of folks on this list just suggest using an ordinary bare-ended hose (of the right diameter) -- three or four feet is a convenient length.
Anyway, here's what you do. First, collect at least 12 quarts (or liters, since you mentioned you have a 240SE, which is an overseas model designation). Personally, when I get a new (used) car I routinely immediately do this flush, and (especially) because I use synthetics, I want to flush the transmission and torque converter completely to really rid the mineral-based ATF -- so I'll run 20 quarts through it at such an initial time. Doing this (particulary for a car whose ATF change is overdue, and it's noticeably dark), I've found that it takes a MINIMUM of 12 quarts to start noticing a color change to the fresh cherry red color it should be; so while some may say 20 quarts is overkill, it reassures me that it's thorough.
With the ATF ready, I detach the UPPER fluid line to the radiator -- use one wrench on the narrow nut on the radiator to hold it stationary, and use another wrench on the long nut ("sleeve") which is the one to turn. This upper line will remain empty (it's the return line to the transmission). You will fasten your hose to the fitting on the radiator. The empty end of the hose goes to your container for the waste ATF.
For you container(s), e.g. a series of gallon jugs, they should be such that you can tell when you've reached consecutive 2 qt. (~l.) levels while filling them.
Now follow these directions carefully. Start up your engine and just let it idle -- ATF will start pouring from the hose into your waste container. It flows at a rate of about (approx.) 1-2 qts per minute. When you've drained about 2 quarts, shut off the engine, and pour two fresh quarts of ATF into your transmission through the usual dip-stick tube (don't forget that you need a narrow funnel for this). Then start up your engine, and repeat; do this as many times as it takes to put all the ATF you planned to use into your transmission.
Do not exceed removing 2 quarts before you stop the engine to replace the 2 quarts.
By about 12 quarts or so, you should see a distinctly improved color in the fluid coming out; but as I said above, I prefer to go past this point, especially the first time.
Congratulations!
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Some 240SE's were sold here, in 1991. It's the "special edition"- really a car very much like the 1993 240 Classic, and often overlooked.
Mechanically, it's identical to any other 1991. They seem to all have antilock brakes (ABS) which was an option starting in 19991. The rest of the differences are simply trim items, and cool wheels.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!
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posted by
someone claiming to be Ken C
on
Mon Jan 31 02:43 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Thanks. I had never heard of a 240SE here in the U.S. -- I assumed that they are all overseas models, and I stand corrected.
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Aye Roll is correct. I bought my 240SE station wagon in 1991 new. It has 4-wheel ABS (instead of two), alloy wheels, leather seats, roof rack, added third seat, and power windows. The other features are pretty similar to a regular 240D.
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Thanks for your detailed description of the procedures. I certainly can do what you prescribed. I have a questions on the fluid type. You call the fluid ATF. But I thought the VOLVO uses the DEXON III type. I know there is one other type of fluid called ATF, mostly used by Dodge transmisions.
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Hi. We routinely call any automatic transmission fluid "ATF" (it's just initials, see? :-).
Actually, all Volvos 1984 and later require Dexron (whatever the current generation might be, such as Dexron III -- I'm expecting Dexron IV some year sooner or later ;-). Volvos 1983 or earlier require Type F. But this "F" is for "Ford", and is not the "F" in ATF, which is for "fluid".
I know, it's just a confusion over common parlance, between here and where you are. I just didn't expect or intend anyone to think I meant Type F ATF (no pun intended :-).
Regards,
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ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid
Yes, Dextron III is the one to use unless you are going to go with a synthetic. I know that Amsoil makes a synthetic ATF that is said to be compatible and people rave about it. I an on the side of believeing that the AW trannys are bulletproof so synthetic is overkill. I would rather spend my money on regular changes of dyno ATF. In fact, I buy the Wal-Mart brand in gallon jugs.
--
Andy in St. Paul. '89 244 147K mi, '91 745 Regina 202K, '87 245 lost to rust at 225K
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Hi, again.
As I noted in my earlier post, I change to synthetic routinely and immediately whenever I buy a new (used) Volvo. And I happen to use AmsOil ATF.
Yes, it's expensive, but you don't change ATF nearly as often as engine oil, and it's a good investment (IMHO), further protecting the transmission, especially if you (as I) use my Volvo for towing a boat about 60 miles roundtrip, usually twice a week weekly during summer months; plus other heavy towing sometimes. And I've never had transmission problems (up to 275-300K miles per car, over many cars) other than electrical gremlins with the overdrive control circuit.
It's an investment -- but it's a personal choice.
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Check for tranny tips in the 700/900 FAQ in the pull down Featrures section at the top of the page. It is basically the same procedure for the 200 series.
--
'94 940 150k, '86 240 170k, '72 142 KIA, '70 144 KIA, '69 144 RIP
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