Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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Dead Turnsignals and A Funny Thing Happened On the Way to the Forum 120-130 1966

Having fun putting my pale-green car back together after its strip-down at the bodyshop: headlights and taillights in, windshield in (what a mess! but it's done, cleaned up, and watertight), rear window in, most of the trim on, front bumper and new overriders go on today, severed tailight wires repaired (incidentally, new contact kits already attached to copper wiring were found at Pep Boys, and it was easy to soder the new wires to the old wiring, much easier than trying to soder the old wires back on to the old contacts that were originally crimped on). But the front turnsignals are still not working. I put in all new bulbs, replaced one blown fuse (all the others seem ok), CAREFULLY reconnected all the small slide-on contacts to their original, correct attaching points and gave them a good cleaning before doing this, and visually traced the wiring back and it seemed all connected, so what's wrong here? Any tips or something I might be missing?

Incidentally, I drove the car back home (from friend's garage) thinking about the blinkers and how I ought to post a question about this on the brickboard. The car was backfiring again (I think the carbs aren't in sync), but it did seem to be struggling more than usual. When I got home I looked under the hood, and...I was missing a damper piston off one of the SU carb domes. It had been loose once, but never completely popped out. A resulting sploosh of oil (I use Mobile 1 in there) was on the underside of my hood. I got on the phone, found a used one in CA, and had it mailed to me in 3 days. Yesterday I went to put it in and it wouldn't go in. ??? I removed some of the oil I'd just added, and tried to take a look, but couldn't see much. I tried again, it was jamming up against something--so I removed the other one and tried to see if it would go, but it wouldn't fit either. Were these things different sizes? I compared the two and they looked identical.

It'd been about a yr and a half since I took the domes off and cleaned them, so I couldn't remember the internal workings in detail, but that was the only option I had. So I took them apart and found, whad'yknow, the entire lower length of the pistin was still there! Apparently, it was only the plastic screw cap that had flown off. Who knew that this particular part could break/wear off?! Happily, I removed the offending part, put the dome and its inards back together w/new damper piston, and the car revved enthusiastically.

Still slightly backfiry, and struggling in and out with drawing power when I step on the gas (the problem goes away, comes back...), but I'll try dealing with that today.

Thanks!

Holly











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Dead Turnsignals and A Funny Thing Happened On the Way to the Forum 120-130 1966

Are you getting a good ground to the body of the front turn signals? I think some years (mybe all of them?) had no grounds, and just relied on the mounting screws making a good contact between the fender and the turn signal body.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.








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Dead Turnsignals and A Funny Thing Happened On the Way to the Forum 120-130 1966

I can vouch that '67 had a ground wire. I second the potential for a bad ground, even with the wire, that needs to be checked carefully.

Ja, had same issue with dashpots but mine was putting a sealing washer on a damper cap that was not designed to take one so not enough threads were engaged and it kept blowin' off.

You can get uneven damping if one is worn more than the other. I have the luxury (stupidity) of having several in the garage to "mis-n-match" from. Test: lift the piston (engine off) with your finger as fast as you can. The resistance shoudl be about equal. If not, try swapping dampers. If still not equal, try getting another damper or two new ones from Burlen or other supplier. This is a reason why balancing the carbs by watching the piston rise as you open the throttle is not a very good method. Balances them fine under acceleration but not at "cruise."

Hunting and backfiring is also a symptom of false-air (a "vacuum" leak in the carb or intake tract).

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Mike!








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Good carbs advice, but more burning issues at present... 120-130 1966

I have a '66--no ground wire, but I'm thinking I'll put some in myself.

***

Began to play with the carbs, and let the car idle for 20 minutes or so, before getting ready to take it to the mechanic who's going to do my inspection. When I went back out to the car I got in the driver's seat, smelled smoke...um, let's turn around and check this out--well, the back seat was smokin! Actually pouring out of the center arm rest, . Turned off car, got underneath it, pulled up the carseat (plywood underside was blackened), muffler apparently heating up like a coal(??!?). Idling too rich? It's running on all four cylinders, because the spark plugs were just changed.

A quick way to get the latest in "heated seats," or my first Volvo barbecue (interrupted, at least!)?

What on the damper actualy gets "worn"?

At any rate, I think my problems extend beyond the dampers at the moment. Need to do some SU reading right now...

thanks for the carb advice; lacking more expertise I'm thinking I'll just go buy the gadget that helps you synch them properly.

Never a dull moment!

Holly







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