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bulb out relay - resoldering 700

I pulled my bulb out relay today and opened it up.
Had a peculiar electrical scent but no evidence I could see of cracked solder joints. The relay has 3 tiers the bottom most of which is soldered to the pins.
Anyone know which of these numbered pins controls the L drivers side brake light?

Should I just heat up each of these solder joints until they are liquid and let them cool before movong on the the next?

I read the FAQ's concerning resoldering but am wondering if this applies only to the joints connected to the connecting pins? Any advice much appreciated.

Maui








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    bulb out relay - resoldering (Left stop terminl) 700

    Anyone know which of these numbered pins controls the L drivers side brake light?


    Terminal #10 (or 54L).
    --
    Bruce Young
    '93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.








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    bulb out relay - resoldering 700

    I can't help with the connections, but I can with the resoldering technique. If joints have failed due to heat, the tin has usually been evaporated out from the solder. The correct technique is to use a solder-sucker (from an electronics store) to suck away the remaining solder after reheating it. Then you can resolder the joint with fresh resin-cored solder. Bring the joint to temperature quickly, and flow the solder on until it forms a nice fillet. Remove the iron quickly and do not disturb the joint until the solder has set. The surface should be shiny, and not matt.

    Hope this helps for at least part of your question.
    Andrew








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      bulb out relay - resoldering 700

      To elaborate on the soldering advice given above:

      When you have sucked off the old solder, examine the area carefully. All the metal should be tinned. If there are any oxidised areas, gently scrape these down to bare metal with a scalpel or craft knife before re-soldering.

      A temperature-controlled soldering iron is best for delicate work. If you don't have one of these, use extra care to ensure that you do not overheat the joint whilst re-soldering. When heating up the joint before applying the solder, ensure that there is a face on the bit in contact with both of the surfaces to be soldered. The keys to success are:

      1. Get the joint up to temperature quickly
      2. Apply the solder quickly
      3. Get out quickly
      4. If there are a lot of joints, allow some time for each to cool before moving on to the next one

      When solder is allowed to sit on the bit for some time, the tin boils out and a faulty 'dry' joint may be produced (they generally look 'frosty'). Therefore, wipe the bit clean just before making the joint.

      If you haven't done this before, practice on an old printed circuit board. There's plenty of that 'techno-junk' lying around!

      Andrew








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        bulb out relay - resoldering 700

        Greetings Andy and Lucid,

        Thanks to you guys I know which pin to resolder and the technique I need to employ.
        It is worth it to me to get the proper 25W iron and possibly even the suction device you mentioned. Did not know they existed prior to your post.

        When I get the tools assembled and attempt the repair I will post again with the results. I did succeed in winning one from an Ebay auction yesterday just in case for $20 delivered which seemed a bit high...

        Maui








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          Solved my brake light always on problem... FINALLY unexpected fix 700

          My drivers brake light problem (always on) was solved as follows. It was not the bulb out relay, the brake light switch, a faulty ground, or mismatched bulbs.

          I had replaced both tail lights on this car with some OEM bought on Ebay as the originals were in terrible shape - cracked and leaking badly- also causing bulb out light in dash.

          Before installing the replacements I had cleaned all circuit boards contacts and made sure every light bulb was matched left to right. I still had the dreaded bulb out indicator dash light.

          I purchased a used bulb out relay on ebay but it proved to be faulty.

          The problem was that the WHITE BRAKE LIGHT HOLDER can ONLY be used on the RIGHT TAIL LIGHT (passenger side on US cars). I used a white bulb holder on both sides thinking they should be color matched for easy identification. Big mistake.

          If one puts a white bulb holder on the left side you will cause both the bulb out indicator to be on in your dash and the Left brakelight to be on whenever the parking or headlights are turned on.

          I wonder how many others have had this problem. No one seemed to be aware of this.
          The solution was months in coming! Now if I can just fix that goofy speedometer..








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            Solved my brake light always on problem... FINALLY unexpected fix 700

            740GL 90 199.8K Rex

            I think I have your problem, please say yes or no.
            After repalcing all bulbs. 6 months now. With headliights off, and right blinker on, or brakes. I get a bulb out sensor. Doesn't flash fast like it would if the bulb was defective or not current flow.

            However, when headlights, are on no problems at all. Now, I have not had normal Headlights for about 2 months now, had to hold down Hi Beam til I replaced the K relay yesterday.


            However, the Bulb out sensor situation has not changed. Still sam issue.







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