I went to the auto store and asked for high temp grease to use on my brake pads (last resort for squealing before replacing with new load calipers). I've tried everything posted in FAQ, but putting high temp grease on the pad guides (side of the pad metal backing). I got home an realized they gave me Permatex "Disc brack quiet" that appears to create a platic film. Do not believe this is what I want. Shouldn't it be like a heavy graphite grease? Can I use high temp wheel bearing grease?

Gary

Thank to all for great info.

Gary,

I went thru the agony of continual break noise, shuddering, squeals, premature rotor wear, etc..I came to the conclusion that the shims are a waste. I spent a few extra dollars at FCP Groton and bought the pads with 'built-in' or integral shims, made by Texar if I remember correctly. I apply syl-glyde to all moving/mating surfaces (except the pads of course) and that got rid of all my brake problems. I threw out the pink Permatex "disc brake quiet", it did not help me at all.

hope this helps, and good luck.

D

The Permatex Disk Brake Quiet is a thick goo that dries on the back of the pad and absorbs vibration. It works, but you should also use silicone grease (Permatex makes a variety of this too as does Sil-Glyde) for the contact points between the pad metal and the caliper frame (at each corner). Any auto store has this.

You want a silicone high-temp grease. The stuff I use is called Syl-Glide and it comes in a small tube. FCP Groton sells it and may even have a pic of it on their website www.fcpgroton.com.

I apply it to the whole back of the pad, and to the back of any shims that belong in behind it. Also the edges and corners of the pad, any place that will contact the caliper body- be very careful not to go around the corner and get any on the front side of the pad friction surface.

Any contact points or sliders- pins, springs, fingers, etc need a little smear of this grease. If your car came with shims behind the pads, they should be used as well. If the pads you have came with built in, stuck-on shims, that ought to be good enough. If you have NO shims, you may need to get them. I don't remember off hand if the 900's take shims. All the 240 and 740s do.

A new loaded caliper won't fix the problem, trust me. They use cheap pads and no grease. If shims are used, they're the cheap stuck-on variety. You still have to go through this process for a new caliper.

Good luck with it, it can be a frustrating problem.
--
Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!

Thanks, Rob, for explaining putting grease (of all things!) on brake parts; well, on SOME portions of SOME brake parts. ;-)

I thought about this the other night, as I applied a thin coat of Mobil 1 oil to some parts of the neglected weight machines at our YWCA. The noisier ones then no longer thrummed as I perfected my physique on them.

And, on the other hand, I remembered applying resin to my daughters' violin bows, to INCREASE their noise-making ability.

Gummy increases friction, coupling, noise.
Greasy decreases same.

I may catch hell for this but no matter which of my vehicles I do brakes on, I Wire brush the traveling points and wire wheel the 'Pins' and put either white lithium grease on them or axle grease. Just enough to leave a film. Never had a problem.

That stuff they gave you might help as long as you put it on the points where the pistons touch the pad.
Did you take a Wood File and break the edges of the new Pads?? give that a shot.
--
'75 Jeep CJ5 345Hp ChevyPwrd, two motorcycles, '85 Pickup: The '89 Volvo is the newest vehicle I own. it wasn't Volvos safety , it was Longevity that sold me

I use the Permatex disc quieter and find it works well, you should take a heavy sand paper to the back and scuff them up a little then clean the back up and then follow the directions on the packet.
Hope that helps
Poolman