1975 164 with ipd cam runs rich.been to shop twice, can't fix it.time for carbs?

FI temp sensor as told is the first shot, but...

D-Jet is famous for problems with tuning cams and will only accept slight alterations from the original setup. Did the car ever run ok with this cam or is the problem a consequence of the cam replacement?

Martin
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'65 121, '73 165

Car came from Vanc. Wa,lots of $$$ appear to have been spent on fix up.New injectors,IPD sway bars and springs, new leather int.(relly!),has black box on dash from IPD to adjust??? my expert tells me it fattens up fuel mix thru cold start valve.This was disconnected because it always runs too rich!One mech turned screw in map(toad?).Did run ok for 2-3 days.Talked to owner from past who told me his brother put cam in and had motor rebuilt.He bought for son,and then after it kept dying on freway etc, he took it to mech. and no luck!I bought from Paul D mech in Portland.SOOOO... I don't think it ever ran well after cam. Thanks

Adjusting the (normally not adjustable) map sensor is a common way to trick D-Jet with more aggressive cams/over all engine tuning. This has to be done carefully as to many turns on that screw will destroy the sensor. Maybe you should try finding another one, not that easy - I know, and switch.

Are you sure the IPD kit isn't connected in series with the engine temp sensor, cheating the ECU with a lower temp signal than actually measured? The result would be a richer mixture. Whatever method used, I would suspect every connection related to that box. Try to follow each and every wire and check for obvious faults.

Martin
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'65 121, '73 165

An IPD cam won't make it run rich. It might require some tuning tweaks, but over-richness is not characteristic.

The cold start injector should be completely disabled except when the engine is being cranked with the starter. If this was rewired, it very possibly was done wrong and the injector is firing all the time.

There are other possibilities, but I'd rule that one out first.

A 165 is what you get from combining a 164 and an x45..:-) More info at

http://switch.to/estate

Martin
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'65 121, '73 165

Martin,
You know that the 164's sold in the USA did not come with fog lights, right? So if you find some in the junk yards over there, there are people on this side of the Atlantic who would love to spend a little money for them. Plus shipping, of course. But not $450 like the one European offered. Something more reasonable, like less than $100/pair.
Of course, we would then need to know where the horns must to be relocated and find a switch for the fog lights. And so on...

Klaus
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98 V70Rawd(101Kmi), 95 854T(85K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)

Unfortunately the fog lights were an incredibly poor design, with no sealing of the bulb mounting. Water gets into them every time you drive in rain or wash the car and the result is reflector rust like never seen before. They are virtually impossible to find in acceptable condition so, well, at a price of $100 a set even europeans would fight over them.

This design flaw of course also will burn a bulb every time you turn the lights on - water and halogen bulbs is a no-no. I gave up changing bulbs a long time ago since the way to high mounted lights are useless in foggy conditions anyway.

The second problem is that when you've finally found these little pieces of pure gold, there will only be a matter of time before one or two are shattered by gravel - btdt. I've still got one single spare in poor condition but will convert my car with regular H1 inserts like those found on 80's BMW's, quad light VW's and so on instead. Much cheaper, way better weatherproofing, a lot of light options to choose among and you won't have to worry about damage any more. Diameter is very close to the original.

Horns originally were mounted low, behind the front sheet metal next to the bumper support arms, pointing downwards. I used a set of flat ones out of a nineties 240 mounted behind the grille instead - works like a charm.

Martin
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'65 121, '73 165

I guess the real problem are the fog light retaining brackets. Or are BMW available with chrome surrounds to hold them in place?

Klaus
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98 V70Rawd(101Kmi), 95 854T(85K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)

Guess you can use chrome surrounds (at least VWs use them) to keep lights in place but there will be some custom work involved. The Volvo mounting is nothing like "modern" three screw bayonet systems. Depth is another issue, maybe this would be an interesting update to the site when finished...

Martin
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'65 121, '73 165

Rich running means that the map sensor has a leak.

Intermittent cutting out can be nearly anything. I would start at the fusebox first then look at the wiring on the coolant sender & the throttle position switch.

You can put carbs on it whenver you want, but they are a step down for power & economy.

On D-jet b20's there is a sensor at the front of the head that sends water temp to the ECU. This will make the car run full rich if shorted, I believe.

#9 on this page:
http://www.super-crush.com/gallery/v/lola/1973140FSM/2engine/2_70.jpg.html
Thanks to greenteagod.

The sensor at the back of the head is for the gauge. Doesn't affect running.

There are specs for the resistance of this sensor somewhere, If you wnat to test.

If the car has been running rich consistently, the plugs are caked, and it will take some running to clear the carbon from the cylinders.

A busted map sensor will give just radically uneven running.


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MPergiel, Elmhurst, IL '74 145e T-5 'Orange Alert'