I did it. Box was no trouble but getting it out of the car was a pain in the a**!
The case is aluminum and mine had fused itself to the mounting bolts via bi-mettalic corrosion. One of the bolts simply would not come out. local shop gave up too for fear of cracking housing with too much force. Ended up drilling out the bolt (very carefully).
Next, the ding-dong input shaft flange would not come off. Flange must be removed to get to the input seal as the whole thing is extracted trhough the box complete with the worm gear. Again, persistence paid off as I eventually rigged a bearing splitter and two-arm puller to sloooowly drive it off (with only minor damage I was able to dress out with a file).
Once those little hurdles were surpassed, I had to break out the metric tools (one of the few places they are used next to brake calipers and fuel tank tap), disassemble, drive out the old seals, order new via internet, clean and inspect box (in pretty darn good condition, no new bushes required) and then reinstall seals and assemble. I used some red-line 90w-140 I happened to have at hand to re-fill.
All because I wanted to replace the bushes at the shaft union!
Oh, by the bye, should you have too little pin engagement at the union, remove the horn ring and steering wheel nut and use a vice-grips at the union to squeeze the upper shaft farther up into the housing before replacing the nut (and subsequently the horn ring). Took an accident while re-positioning my steering wheel to figure that one out!
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Mike!
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