I've used this on three different B21's so far with good results. See description and photo in profile.
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Thanks everyone for all the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, turbo bars and wheels, M46; 86 244, B230, 150k , auto.

Anyone who owns a 240, reads this forum, and has a garage should invest in an air compressor and impact wrench. Not only does it allow you to remove your crank pulley bolt, strut nuts, and lawn mower blade but makes it convenient to keep your tires properly inflated plus hundreds of other uses. jp

I agree. Actually, I guess I should have said I did 2 1/2 front end jobs with this tool so far. The first two I used it to remove and install the crank bolt. On this job we did on Saturday, I used my new air impact wrench to remove the nut, and the homemade tool to torque it on installation. I'm not seasoned enough with the air impact wrench to know when I've tightened things the right amount, so I like to do the tightening by hand. I know guys that use these tools all the time develop a feel for them, but I'm not there yet.

I second that about buying a compressor and impact wrench. My only regret is I didn't do it a lot sooner. Taking off the cam, intermediate, and crank sprockets was a breeze.
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Thanks everyone for all the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, turbo bars and wheels, M46; 86 244, B230, 150k , auto.

And there are a lot of over-seasoned types getting paid to abuse fasteners with air tools. Maybe I'll try to register and get a look at your picture.

Nice tool,

Am I the only one still using the starter method? - I just don't see the need to make or use another tool when Volvo gave you one from the factory, The Starter!

I guess I'd use something like this over stuffing rope into a little hole ....

De donde era usted?
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Happy Motoring! 86' 244 "Grey Mare" '87 245 "Grasshopper"

The fact that it's called the 'starter' and not the 'crankshaft nut removal aid' should be a clue.
But, yeah, I have used that method. Not on a Volvo and not for a long time. Anymore I figure why make the starter work any harder than it has to?
Just out of curiosity, when you do this does it require an assistant? If not what do you do to get the socket and breaker to stay in place?
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'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

I've used it without an assistant with no problem. Once the tool is in place, which is just a matter of installing the tool with the little bolts that normally hold the pulley on, and setting up the lever bar to the block of wood or floor, the set-up is really steady. I just put the breaker bar, or torque wrench when tightening, on the bolt and went at it. Both hands are free to handle the breaker bar or wrench. Of course, it's easier with an assistant. Yesterday, we did my son's car, and with both on the torque wrench, from opposite sides of the car, reaching the 122 pounds was really smooth and controlled.
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Thanks everyone for all the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, turbo bars and wheels, M46; 86 244, B230, 150k , auto.

Actually, I was asking in reference to the 'starter method.'
Anyhow, I'll stick with the rope trick.
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'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon

"I guess I'd use something like this over stuffing rope into a little hole ...."

I'd say don't knock it if you haven't tried it.

Doug's tool for the b21 looks like it does the job, and I share his interest and concern for torquing the pulley bolt to spec. And as far as I know his tool and the Rope Trick are the only holding tool alternatives that do allow correectly torquing the bolt to book spec of 44 lb ft, then an additional 60° (b230) or 122 ft lbs (b21/23).

I will also say from experience that the "Rope Trick" is just about as easy and quick as installing either tool. I have and use both tool types now, but used rope for years in the past.

Here's a recent response from a first time "roper", who didn't want to wait for a tool to be shipped:

"The "rope trick" for holding the engine still while removing the harmonic balancer bolt worked like a charm. Honestly, I doubted that it would, but WOW!"
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

The problem with the rope is you have to THINK about it. Once you finish the THOUGHT about it, pulling a plug is gobs faster than bolting up any type of special locking tool. Calling it a TRICK makes it sound cowboy.

Calling it a TRICK makes it sound cowboy.

I agree, but that's what it's called here, so I use it too, for "search" referencing.

I suspect the rope "method" has been in use since the first pulley was bolted to a crankshaft.

The only reason I have the "proper" tools is because I convinced myself that I needed them, and now I use them because I have them. But I may regress on my next b230 pulley, just for old times sake.

I have no use at all for the "get it off and screw the torque specs later" tricks. And crawling under the car to jam the ring gear is way too labor intensive, IMO.
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.

I haven't used the starter method. I like this tool because I can tighten the bolt to the 122 foot pound spec really easily. The tool holds the crank rock steady.

Soy de los EE UU. Vivo en Oregon. Aprendi' el espanol en la universidad. Y usted, lo habla tambie'n?


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Thanks everyone for all the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, turbo bars and wheels, M46; 86 244, B230, 150k , auto.