When it rains very hard, there is a puddle of water on the driver's floor mat on my daughter's '89 240.

What are a couple of locations that could potentially be leaking? I want to locate and repair/reseal as quickly as possible. Thanks,
Cabbie2169

Sorry forgot to say that it was a sedan. No roof rack. I'm leaning towards a windshield leak. The metal/plastic trim thing that goes around the perimeter of the windshield is loose. Not sure if that actually seals anything though....but I'm gonna have to get a water hose going while I'm on my back looking up under the dash....anymore ideas??? Thanks,
Cabbie2169

If it's a wagon, check the rubber well-nuts that the roof rack is mounted to.

The flat rubber pieces below roof rack "feet" only protect the paint, they are not the seal. The screw goes into a "well nut" down in the hole, with it's larger end facing up - the larger end fits the coutout in the flat rubber piece. The visible threads in well-nut go down below. Tightening the screw expands the well-nut, which creates the seal, much like some wall-anchors biting into plaster or wallboard.

The well nuts are available in some hardware stores. Home Depot didn't have the right size, True Value did. Don't know about Lowe's. The screw thread is 1/4-20, it's not metric! Well-nut size is 1/4 S or S 1/4, you will see it on the existing old ones. That's what you must match.

Some Volvo dealers also have them, but usually at a higher price.

Grommets on firewall.

Opening on side of car near ECU to the right of front passenger's legs.

Seal around wiper motor.

Windshield.

Seat belt anchor base near floor, on side of car, to the right of rear passenger-side passenger's right foot. If the car is parked pointed downhill, this might be the source.

Take out the felt liner above front passenger's knees and remove glovebox. Remove passenger front seat, remove hard flexible plastic weatherstripping along front edge of door opening, remove side plastic kick panel, pull back the carpet, lie down on your back with your head under the dash with a good flashlight and watch every potential spot carefully while your helper sprays the car down from every possible angle.

If the leak(s) aren't up front somewhere, remove the plastic door thresholds so you can lift the carpet more and expose the inside face of the rocker panel area. If your rocker panel drainholes are plugged, it might leak where the seat belt achors to the body. Mine did.

Good luck.

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Thanks everyone for all the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, turbo bars and wheels, M46; 86 244, B230, 150k , auto.

Does it have a sunroof? If so, clear all the drains. The drains are located in all 4 corners of the s-roof. A straightened coathanger works pretty well.

My other guess is a leaking windshield. Check outside seal's condition. Any rust there? Go under dash and check to see if any water is leaking from the windshield behind the dash. You could have your daughter pour water on the car/windshield as you check from underneath. Don't get soaked!! Water from leaking windshields usually ends up on the carpet...


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90 244DL 252K - original engine/drivetrain :)

How do I fix if it's the windshield???? Glass repair folks?? Does the metal/plastic trim piece that's on the outside perimeter of the windshield come off to reveal the trim???

The trim pops off; I've seen it done. The real seal is below the glass, between the glass and the metal.

My solution to leaky windshields has been to get a new one installed.

Here is why not to get a used one from a junker:
Labor of replacement is at least half of the total cost of the total item.
Removing a windshield from any car usually breaks it.
Maybe some with lots of experience can make it work, but dont' count on it.
Nothing like a nice new glass without pitting.
Try to get Pilkington brand, I think that's the Volvo OEM.

Shops will usually tell you that the metal beneath is rusty and they will therefor not warranty against leaks. Even so, it will almost certainly be better than what you have now, if the leak is from the windshield.

If you really want to do the best possible for it, I think the solution would be to get it in to a body shop, get the glass removed, have them clean up the sheet metal and reprime etc. as needed. Then have the glass guys go there and put the new windshield in. If you have the body work skills, then you can spend the time instead of the money. I never had the money, time or patience to get the metal cleaned up - just had new glass installed with a new seal.

Part 2: change to new style molding.
The new style, with built-in trim molding, is more aerodynamic, and you might like the looks better. Fits right on. They did not change the sheet metal.
I prefer it, but that's your call for your car. If you want to go this way - - -

When calling the glass shops for quotes, have them look up a '92 Volvo 240. That gets you into their computer as a '92. You'll get a quote for the new style. After you decide your preferred shop, you explain that actually it's an '89, you want the new style that they quoted you, and you explain that you know it fits with no problem. Worked for me.

If instead, you ask for a quote for an '89, they get you into their system that way, and when you (later) tell them you want the newer style setup, they usually get all concerned over it. Need to ask the manager, he doesn't know, or may not want to make the change, etc. Been there, done that.

How much are we talking here? ($$)

Here in NJ I recently had the front windshield replaced for $210 on my '88 DL. They came and did it at my house. Note - I replaced it because it was cracked not because it was leaking. Seems to me that if glass is fine then just have it re-sealed then might only be about $100. Good luck.