Ive written in before about problems with my generator- typically it turnes out to be some problem with the regulator which is eventually mysteriously resolved by something- the worst way to solve any problem- and i never know exactly what. ive replaced this regulator 3 times. and this on is relatively new but old enough to know its not faulty. so here is the run down of my systematic look at it:
1. All connections seem to be good- tested with a multimeter, they are all making contact.
2. I found that the brown-green wire to the generator was diconnected- reconnected it and tested the connection.
3. Voltage to regulator B+ is 12 volts
4. With power off, i tested the connections within the regulator- when i force it to close, all the connections are good.
5. The light "seems" to flicker with rpm around 5000- only a tiny tiny bit and could be nothing at all.
6. with the car on, manually forcing the regulator to make a connection- the light goes off completely.

By my interpertation of the regulator, it looks like there is a coil of copper wire which with increasing rpm gets a charge and acts as a magnet to attract the metal connection and when enough charge is gained the two make contact and you have a charging battery. So it seems that this coil is not getting a charge. Anything that is suggested is great help. Im still pretty new at all this- still trying to learn exactly how everything works so any correction of my above thoughts is great too. Thanks

DWS;

Referring to wiring diag. at: http://www.intelab.com/swem/1800%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg ...if "the brown-green wire to the generator was diconnected" that wont help as it is the field wire!...and the reg needs to ground that to make field current so that the genny puts out...without that, no joy!

More info at: http://www.intelab.com/swem/service%20notes.htm#Electrical%20Equipment

Good Hunting!

Well, i rechecked that wire and it didnt seem to be a problem. i grounded it manually with the car on and it didnt make the light go out. But then i decided to make the generator run as a motor to make sure it wasnt that. I followed the instructions on http://www.intelab.com/swem/service%20notes.htm#AMP%20Light%20ON and made all the proper connections. the generator ran very fast and was drawing a high current. my book suggests a burnt commutator. But im not getting a charge at all out of this- seems like it would overcharge with this am i wrong? So is this possibly the cause of my lit amp light?

ok, well after another round of testing this is what i have with the car running. The DF on the generator is grounded. The generator is putting out about 1.4 volts or so at idle which increases with speed. The regulator is getting that voltage at the line in from the generator. B+ has 12 volts on it. and the regulator is not closing the connection even with increased rpm. However, when i close the connection, the voltage on the line in from the generator (D-) i think- i cant quite read that on my diagram- jumps to around 10 volts. So to me it looks like i have a regulator problem & from my last post above a generator problem- alternator time?

Personally I believe any externally regulated smoke generator is a waste of diagnostic effort and resources unless you are going for the Pebble Beach top award.

In every Alternator conversion I have done I chucked all that kaka and ended up with a single wire to my battery and no worries (for 1-wire alternators).

If you really want the "amp" light to work, choose the "2-wire" version of the alternator and be happy (light from "amp" light to field fitting, heavy wire from output to battery).

Lighter, cheaper, less complexity.

--
Mike!

well i picked up a one wire alt. and pretty much just got it to bolt on- i had to make a new tension bar but that was the most of it. Its putting out about 13 - 14 volts when the engine speed is increased- the battery should be close to dead with all my messing around- just want to make sure this sounds right.

Yup. "Should" be charging at between 13.5 to 14.5 volts. Once it excites, it should not vary the voltage appreciably but the amp output will vary. An electrickery shop should be able to verify proper function if you are concerned.

--
Mike!