posted by
someone claiming to be Broncobilly
on
Fri May 27 16:58 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I just picked up a 96 960 sedan, it's my first Volvo but I've been looking at them on & off for a couple years now. I wasn't able to test drive it due to the need for a new radiator so I had to settle for listening to it run for a couple of minutes. It has 180k and appears to have been well maintained (good looking fluids, all nice & shiney under the oil fill cap, no sludge or wear visable). There are some minor issues like stretched door handle cables, nonfunctional seat heaters, a mild pulse to the brakes and such like that. I'm more concerned with what sounds like a lifter not pumping up and a SEL with unknown codes stored up. Other than the valve thing making it sound like a helicopter it dives nice and has good power once the junkyard radiator was in. There's a slight bog when accelerating but I'm hoping that cleaning the throttle body will clear that up.
As strongly as it runs I don't think the engine is going to fail in the immediate future but I'm not sure if I have a bad lifter or a valve covered with gunk. Either way I can't imagine an engine that sounds like this having more than a few thousand miles left. I really don't want to put a top end on this thing, if this is going to be a significant problem I'd just as soon put in a 302 and call it done.
I really like the ride & feel of the car and it seems nice for the $1000 I paid for it, but it seems like I keep hearing the Ka-ching of the cash register with every paragraph of the B6304 FAQ that I read.
Advise & observations welcome
Dave
1996 964
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posted by
someone claiming to be Broncobilly
on
Tue May 31 13:52 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I spoke to Ross a couple years back and discussed the project in moderate detail. At the time he was quoting $10k as an upper end for an in-shop turnkey conversion. Doing it here in the driveway is also an attractive option, for the same coin I can put in a new gt-40 5.0 and an equvilant AOD or a paxton for that matter. On the other hand I'm not anxious to screw around with the OBDII, especially here in Mass. I've never spoken to Ross about the OBDII issue but I figured the federale's would make me keep it.
I had hear from a couple of second-hand sources that a reman would run me close to $6k. How hard is one of the things to swap ? I need 3 ignition wires and a couple-o vaccuum hoses to make my 460 run, I'm thinking the 24v needs more than that. Is $3k a reliable number for a good rebuilt ? The V8 swap is attractice because I get a new tranny with the deal and can pretty much forget about the drivetrain for the next 10yrs. How much will a rebuilt AW40 run me ? I seem to remember a comment in a FAQ somewhere that the engine was most easily removed with the transmission as a unit. Is there anyone who'd sone this and can comment ? Has anyone tried to source a scrapyard engine? I suppose the cost would vary by region though.
Yup, it was about 18-20 yrs back. I'd built a fairly nice 351W for an 86' mustang. I ran the engine to 20k on light sweet crude then switched to synthetic. Within 5k I had leaks at both valve covers, the timing chain cover, fuel pump, oil pan and rear main. All Fel-Pro gaskets & the machine work & assembly done by a ruputable, longtime racing shop & had come with specific recomendations against synth oil due to leakage. Went back to natural but most of the leaks stayed. Been gunshy ever since. As bad as this thing sounds though I suppose I'll try it since it's a lot easier than pulling the head.
Dave
96 960
78 Bronco (Lincoln 460)
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Billy -- It's hard to get hosed for $1000, but a 960 can eat up your time &/or $$$ mighty fast. I've got both a '97 stock 960 and a '96 Converse, which Ross built for me with a 2000 Explorer 302 and a Tremac 5 speed. I've got a pretty good handle on costs for either direction you go.
An option you didn't mention is to avoid the risks with the engine you've got which sounds like both an unknown and a Sikorsky -- i.e., why not go with a remanufactured engine. You can find an I-6 out there with a warranty for under $3000. And then it's a drop in situation which you can do or have done for about $1000.
If you go with Ross, you obviously have the choice of having him do it or buying his parts,etc. Now you've go a '96, so that means serious OBD II and emissions concerns and if you're going to do it yourself, you better know what you're doing. I guarantee you, even if you do it yourself, it's going to cost you more that a remanufactured I-6. If you have Ross do it, and I am a very satisfied customer and big fan of his ... you've got to have a serious talk with him and a sense of how long it's going to take.
In summary -- follow the advice of the good fellas in the thread and you're gonna spend $1500 and maybe solve it; remanufactured engine & install maybe $3500-$4500; do it yourself Converse $6500-8500; and have Ross do it - minimum of $11,000.
'97 960 with 110K;'96 Converse 965 2000 Ford 302 & Tremac T-5;'93 940 w/175K
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Bronkobilly--your in the right place--the car is just getting broken in, go to the website for Auto r-x and do the two program change on the oil, switch out the oil afterwards to 5w40 mobile synthetic, check out the faqs on the brickboard and do the flush for the tranny to mobil 1 syn tranny fluid, your car is going to love it.
Make sure the last timing belt was done when it was needed, if it goes, so does the engine.
If you want, there is power in these 6 bangers, check the posts for cam timing revisited from tjst 1 back last month to find the how too's.
Hope everything goes well
Poolman
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posted by
someone claiming to be Broncobilly
on
Fri May 27 19:47 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Poolman,
I read the recent threads on cam timing but didn't want to get too deeply involved until I had a better handle on what I have, but it looks to be a simple enuf mod. I was thinking of switching to a full synthetic but did that years ago with another engine and had more leaks then I knew what to do with, switching back to natural oil stopped the leaking. I hate to generate new leaks here but on the other hand it may help with the possible valve deposits.
I did the drop it into low and crank the tach to 4500 for 5 minutes thing and have to tell ya it scared the hell out of me, sounded like I was being followed by a huey. But I will grant that the car seemed to run smoother.
is there a consensus on the best method of flushing the tranny ? Sounds like pulling the pan is a hassle that includes a trip to the Toyota parts counter. Does the IPD flush do-dad work on the 960's ? I was planning on picking up the power brake flush thingie since they pulse a bit and the E-brake won't hold it still.
I don't have a clue when the belt was replaced last. The lady I bought it from seemed pretty anal so I'm guessing it was done last at 140k when it was due but there's no telling. Will I get away with just a belt or should I change out the tensioner & waterpump ?
I don't doubt this I6 has a few more ponies hidden away but it seems like I'm going to be getting into some cash to find them. Anything more than a chip & some exhaust work seems prohibitively expensive. I like the 24valve engine, I really do but before I start porting & polishing I'll probably call Ross and hunt down a 5.0 crate stroker. speaking of which.....just how much juice will the stock rearend handle ? I seem to recall reading somewhere that the 960's got a ls differential but haven't had the courage to smoke mine up to verify. Will the factory differential take 300 or so hp ?
Thanks,
Dave
1996 960
1978 Bronco (Lincoln 460)
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BB
Since you dont know when the timing belt was done, go ahead and do it asap, also do the water pump since you are already there and do the tensioner and pulley for good measure. Once you get those things done, you can ease up a bit on the immediate maintenance and try the autorx as poolman suggested. I have never used it but have heard some good things and some things that say dont bother. Cant hurt so give it a try.
I think the engine is one of the best things about the car and you want to put a FORD motor in it? Geeze. Flush the tranny, go over the brakes and fix the niggly little shit and I think you will be pretty happy with the car. I havent found it to be all that expensive to maintain unless you are dragging it back to the dealer. Sounds like you are up to doing your own work so I think you will do well by it. Good Luck.
--
97 S90 with 184K miles still going strong
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Seems to me that the cars Ross built for Letterman and Newman had stock 960 rear ends in them, and (I think he told me) somewheres about 400 horse.
--
01 V70 2.4 M5 and a Mini
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Hi Pool -
I am still reading the Owner's manual on my "New2Me" 1997 965, with 129K. Somewhere in there is a chart and statement about engine oil to use.
On the dipstick is a round thing right by the handle with a warning, and the same warning is in the manual: Do not use 15W-40 under normal operating condition. Only in sustained temps above 104F, or trailer towing. In addition, it says that synthetic 10W-30 would be better under those conditions.
The recommended weight for temps -4F to 104F is 10W-30.
OK, that said, you recommend 5W-40 Mobil 1, which, absent that warning, I would run with. Sounds dandy to me. I respect your experience so please pass on to me your thinking in going with that weight - is it because with the synthetic one can get some benefit not available with dino oil?
Thanks a lot.
Bob
:>)
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oil recomendations for our cars since they came out. While 15w40 is still a little much 5w40 is ok. When you go with a syn oil it's even better.
Poolman
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Let me add a little more to the above post now that I can't edit more .
Syn oil years ago had properties in it that caused some seals to leak and before that was found out alot of people have given syn oil a bad rap.
I have used syn oil now for over 2 years (Mobile 1) and haven't had any problems with seeping or leaking on my car others here have good results also.
Syn oil will also keep your intake valves cleaner, is as that when the gases that are produced, and fed back thru the flame trap to go back into the intake will not have the carbon that is in the dino oils. This may help some who are having troubles passing state emmision requirements.
With the car Broncobilly's bought, if its in good shape like he's said,
I would go with the tranny flush that is in the faqs, after pulling the pan then do the auto r-x treatment to clean the system out to make ready for syn oil. For that matter I ran 6 ounces of the stuff thru my tranny to clean that up before the change on syn fluid there as well.
Change out the t belt tensioner the bearings on and around the t belt along with the water pump. I would also change out the thermistat and the hoses, along with the fittings on the vacuum hoses. Flush the rad and motor along with the power steering and brake system.
If the cars doing well now and not using a lot of oil, do the things said
and the cars going to last another 100k. One other thing I would get into would be to change out the radiator,if it goes and lets coolent into the tranny fluid the tranny will be toast.
Now that sounds like a lot to do, but you bought a car for a grand, thats cheap for one of these cars, put another grand in her and enjoy the car for a long time and that will still be far cheaper than what the car are really worth.
Sorry for the long post and hope that helps
{Poolman)
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