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I spent 2 hours yesterday AM and did an oil change, trans. fluid drain and fill and drained and flushed the cooling system.
The oil change was draining the so called "rinse cycle" from the Auto Rx treatment I tried. I can't tell if it did what I was hoping for or not.
I heard a sticky valve only occasionally when the engine was hot...after a good highway drive. So I tracked down this Auto Rx...I'm far from convinced that it's worth the money or provides anything more then anecdotal results. I would not spend my money on it again.
I decided to go with a Mann filter and 10w-40 dino oil...Super Tech. ...Yes, Wal-Mart oil in my precious V90...It's Mobil SM rated 10W-40 for a fraction of the cost of synthetic and the engine is quiet to the point I can hardly hear it running.
I also did a drain and fill on the trans. and used SuperTech DexronIII/Mercon fluid. I plan to do two(2) more successive trans.fluid drain and fills with the next 2 oil changes. The trans. shifts beautifully with the Super Tech.
I would like to have used synthetic, but quite frankly $7.00/quart for trans. fluid is just silly.
Finally, I flushed and filled the cooling system with SuperTech 5 year/150,000 mile coolant. I have read that it is Prestone with a slight color change,different jug.
I have read a bit about oils and frequented that BITOG site. I am convinced that site is a marketing ploy for Amsoil and AutoRx. Think about it...how many bricks do you hear about die from engine failure related to oil used?
For that matter, how many other brand vehicles die for the same reason?
Good maintenance of any vehicle has more to do with routine and frequency then with the cost of product used. Also, with the additive packages in todays motor oils, I cannot yet justify the cost of synthetic over dino. I did try synthetic 10w-30 in my former 93 940 for one winter. It ran fine, but no marked difference to dino 10W-30. It too was SuperTech brand.
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94 940 106K ,98 V90 96K
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Man, we sure read things differently. About half the contributers to BITOG are AMSOIL bashers.
Wonder why GM factory fills Corvettes with synthetic and requires it in the engine? Why does Mercedes factory fill synthetic and authorize the dealers to use it in maintenance? Why does Saab factory fill with synthetic, and recommend it in all cases?
I guess they just don't understand how good the non-synthetic is these days.
As for my, in the past 25 years I've found that AMSOIL is the least expensive oil I can run in my cars.
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posted by
someone claiming to be tjts1
on
Sat May 28 09:50 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I guess I take a different approach to maintenance costs. You can justify autorx but you can't justify synthetic oil? The more I read people's assortment on BITOG the more I'm convinced that stuff is just snake oil. On the other hand I can't justify the high cost of non synthetic oil. I can safely use M1 5w40 for 10k miles or one year. At $4 a quart the cost is hardly prohibitive. With dino oils I would have to do 3 oil changed in the same period. On top of that, I have to get under the car 3 times as often. No thanks.
I agree that non synthetics have come a long way and your 960 will probably go many 100k miles on it. The only real danger with dino oil is deposits clogging up your breather box and flame trap. This will lead to high crankcase pressure and eventually failure of of the rear main seal. As long as you stay on top of this one issue you'll be fine with dino oil for a very very long time.
Good luck
Justin
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Justin, RE:AutoRx...I could not agree with you more. It is snake oil for sure.
I fell for it I'm sorry to say.
Where is the flame trap on the 960/V90? I routinely cleaned and/or changed it on my 940 and my kid's 940. I must admit, I was tempted to go with the
Rotella 15W-40 full synthetic...it was not that expensive. But I saw the
SuperTech 10W-40 for about a $1/quart and I went with it.
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94 940 106K ,98 V90 96K
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posted by
someone claiming to be tjts1
on
Sat May 28 15:35 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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The flame trap in located in the black housing connecting the hose coming up between cylinder 3 and 4 and the large diameter intake hose connecting to the throttle body. To access the flame trap, unscrew the hose clam at the base of the flame trap just below the tip of the arrow.
Justin
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Justin, RE:AutoRx...I could not agree with you more. It is snake oil for sure.
I fell for it I'm sorry to say.
Where is the flame trap on the 960/V90? I routinely cleaned and/or changed it on my 940 and my kid's 940. I must admit, I was tempted to go with the
Rotella 15W-40 full synthetic...it was not that expensive. But I saw the
SuperTech 10W-40 for about a $1/quart and I went with it.
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94 940 106K ,98 V90 96K
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Justin, RE:AutoRx...I could not agree with you more. It is snake oil for sure.
I fell for it I'm sorry to say.
Where is the flame trap on the 960/V90? I routinely cleaned and/or changed it on my 940 and my kid's 940. I must admit, I was tempted to go with the
Rotella 15W-40 full synthetic...it was not that expensive. But I saw the
SuperTech 10W-40 for about a $1/quart and I went with it.
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94 940 106K ,98 V90 96K
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There are a multitude of reasons that today's manufacturers recommend synthetic oil over dino. The first reason is simply because it is better, bottom line. Has anyone noticed the service intervals on these cars? At 10K+ between oil changes you had darn well better be running some good stuff. Engines are a lot tighter toleranced than they used to be, if you look at the oil passages on just a white motor compared to the red motor you can see that. Also, if you want to believe it, they will tell you that all things being equal the car running the 5W30 versus the old 20W50 will get better gas mileage. Two HUGE factors in the new car business, gas mileage and the annual projected cost of servicing/ownership. Anyway that they can improve upon that or skew it so it looks improved and you can bet they will, it is big bucks after all.
A point one of you guys made was that it does not matter so much what oil you use as it does that you do get it changed routinely. Truer words were never spoken and especially when running a dino grade of oil. If you routinely blow off oil changes there is nothing that I as a technician can do for you, the damage is done. However if you use the finest bottom of the line Wally World oil but you change it every 3K chances are outstanding that you will be just fine. As far as cost goes, it cost about twice as much to do a synthetic oil change in my shop as it does to go dino and I recommend oil changes every 2.5-3K on the dino and every 5K on the synthetic so the only savings in the inconveniece of coming in and getting it done. Getting your car serviced is like going to the dentist for a lot of people, they blow it off. If I tell someone 3K on an oil change I will often times not see them for 5K+. If I told them 10K, good God I'd see them every other year whether they need it or not! The other down side to that is trying to predict if their brake pads will make it another 10K+
Anyhow that is my spin on syn versus dino and the whole oil change interval deal, take it for what it is worth.
Mark
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Mark, it was me as the original poster who stated that frequency and routine of maintenance was more important then the name brand,cost of the oil and other fluids one spends money on. I know for fact that the WalMart 10W-40 dino I just put in my V90 is Mobil. The bottles are even the same shape as Mobil and Exxon oils. The specs.,flashpoints etc... on the MSDS are identical. Now that just happens to be a regional thing. Walmart sources form suppliers based on logistics and proximity. I also know that if I change my oil every 3-4K, I can use just about any oil out there in the right weight. I typically use Chevron, Havoline,Pennzoil or Mobil dino. I have always used 10W-30 both in my V90 and my previous 93 940 NA as well as in my kid's 94 940 NA. I don't skimp on the filter, no need to. I get Mann filters delivered from eEuroparts.com for just under $4.00 each.
I used the WalMart DexronIII/Mercon trans. fluid as I simply will not spend $7/quart for Mobil 1 synthetic trans. fluid. That's silly to me. The car shifts so smoothly I can't feel it unless I'm trying to. I still have a somewhat harsh kickdown from second to first...but that has been there since I've owned the vehicle.
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94 940 106K ,98 V90 96K
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Don't be suprised if your Mobil isn't even Mobil! I've been doing this for awhile and when I buy oil it is a couple hundred gallons at a whack. The way it has been explained to me is that it is like electronics and appliances. You've got an assembly line full of appliances and one guy at the end with 10 different labels, you didn't really think Sears made their own washing machines did ya? The same is true of a lot of your oils out there. My oil supplier does blending for no less than 8-10 different "manufacturers" and Mobil is just one of them. The other thing that they all seem to agree on is ATF, Dexron III is Dexron III, is Dexron III and that is all there is to it. Until you step into the synthetic arena it is all considered "Type Red" and any one is as good as the next. Don't interpret that as Dex is the same as Type F because it is not.
I couldn't agree with you more though, change your darn oil routinely (every 3-5K) and you will be head and shoulders above the chuckle heads that blow it off.
As far as the Rx stuff goes I really have nothing to say about their product but I have seen similar "snake oil" products work wonders and literally resurrect a B230 from certain death. So, there are products out there that can and will do what they say in the correct application but I just have no experience with the one you speak of.
Mark
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Mark,again I agree 110%. Especially about the DexronIII. It is all the same stuff. They blow a whistle and the 4-12 bottles the Pennzoil, blow another whistle and the 12-8 shift bottles the Walmart brand etc...
A lot of those guys on the Bob Is the Oil Guy forum are either smoking,sniffing or drinking the stuff they write about. They are dreaming for sure. That site is the site for the promotion of snake oil.
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94 940 106K ,98 V90 96K
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I'm Ok with the idea that Auto r-x is snake oil- the reasons I recomend it are it does what it says it will do, it will not fix broken or worn parts but it will damn sure clean everything out and make ready for the switch over to syn fluid.
I have run dino oil for the first 140k on my 960 and noticed the oil weeping thru the top areas of the head around the large hole plug on the top left of the engine,and other ares as well. After using the auto r-x and switching over to Mobile 1 syn the top of the engine stays clean and if your going to switch over to syn fluid ,it makes good sence to clean out the system before doing so, auto r-x does a good job of doing just that.
As far as what the price of mobile 1 tranny fluid, just bought some for a freind and did the flush on his 740 and it was 4.50 a qt from Auto Zone.
I have used regular tranny fluid in the car but after switching over to syn fluid I had the best shifting and smoothness out of the tranny, better than it had ever been before, again I put 6 onces in the tranny and drove about 500 miles before that change over, it worked well for me.
From what I have gathered here at the board, these cars do really well on syn fluids and there are less problems with syn fluids that with dino, maintanence being the primary one.
My thoughts
Poolman
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