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The yoke is the part bolted to the output shaft that adapts it to fit the driveshaft flange. It is what the mechanic removed and put aside to access the seal and bushing.
Unbolt driveshaft and lower front end of it out of your way. Remove centre bolt that retains yoke. Yoke slides off easily by hand.
Sidethought; Before starting the job, go to Volvo (or Toyota) and get the washer for that bolt (Volvo PN 190772-4). It is hardened and responsible for clamping the yoke snogly to the forward shoulder on the output shaft so the two parts move as one. It is easy to break by overtightening and I have yet to find one not damaged. If the yoke can wobble on the output shaft, it will often be running non-perpendicular to the seal lip. Once the washer is broken into segments, it can no longer do its job.
The correct tightening of the bolt requires Locktite on the threads (blue or red) and the bolt torqued to 32 ft/lbs ⎹ Nm]. That is barely more than wrist tight! One handed use of a 1/4" drive ratchet will give the right result...twist the handle, don't pull it. Most mechanics use a big wrench or an air gun and destroy the washer.
The only other possibility is a clogged vent but that's easy to check without crawling under the car; Remove dipstick. Take a hose that can be made to fit tube. Blow deeply into hose and see if any air comes back. If you have an assisstant - he can listen/feel underneath just behind bell housing for the exit of air. If ANY air comes out the vent, it is not your leak problem. Alternatively, leave the dipstick up enough to keep from sealing tightly and see if your leak stops.
The short story is that your mechanic forgot the basics, a/k/a KISS theory; Keep It Simple, Stupid.
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