Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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replacing head gasket after delay 140-160

Hello all --

I pulled the head off my 140 last fall because a washer had gotten down into the cylinder. And then like an idiot I got busy with school and just left the car in the garage with the head off. I finally have gotten around to beginning to put it back together (got new head gasket). But there is a small amount of rust on the top of the engine block, where the gasket will make a seal. The head was sufficiently oily/greasy that it didn't rust, but there is just a bit on the block. Should I worry about this, or just try to buff off as much as I can and put the head back on. And in general, with a head gasket do you put a little bit of oil on each side to make a good seal like with a normal gasket, or does the pressure a la torque wrench take care of that. If it is airtight it shouldn't rust more, no?

Greg in Ottawa
1973 144








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replacing head gasket after delay 140-160

Hi Greg;
The block and head mating surfaces should be carefully scraped with a gasket scraper or stiff putty knife. You can further clean the surfaces with WD-40 and a bit of 320 or 400 grit wet dry paper. Don't get any abrasives or particles in the engine itself. Clean out the bolt holes, wire wheel the bolt threads. Clean the block and head surfaces with lacquer thinner, and install the gasket dry. Torque at 20, 40 and 65 pounds in sequence. That's it.








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replacing head gasket after delay 140-160

My books say 29, 58 and 65 foot-lb. Any reason not to do it that way?
This is B18, B20 and B30 factory books, btw.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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replacing head gasket after delay 140-160

Only that the stages are somewhat arbitrary, and I go with what I can remember....That said 58 is too close to 65 and the static friction of a bolt torqued to 58 may not be overcome by 65. The stages should be further apart.







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