First question should be pretty basic. I've installed a '75 B20 in a '57 445 so it's a 12 volt conversion. How should I run my ground wires? I'm thinking that the negative battery cable should run to the engine somewhere and then cables to the frame and body. If this is right, what size wire should I be using, more 4-O or whatever battery cable is or can I use something lighter? Thanks for any advice, there's more querys to come

Buz;

The battery negative side hops over to the chassis, and then, (look for it down low) unless it was somehow lost (in which case you'll need to reestablish it), I expect there already is a braid attached to chassis, which hoped over to the old engine (I'm no 444/445 expert, so others will have to chime in with the exact location)...if it's long enough to make it to the new engine and bolt on securely, OK, if not, you can relocate and/or lengthen...the important things are it needs to be fastened securely, and the connection MUST have a vibration loop to allow for engine movement.

For guage, I would expect 3/8" dia. wire (guage?) or equivelent braid to handle the currents fine.

You mention this is a 6 to 12 volt conversion also...so further info here may be helpful: http://www.intelab.com/swem/Vintage_Volvo_6V_to12V_conversion.htm

Finally, Mike and I have had this discussion before....but Zinc Anti-Corrosive Paste is the RIGHT thing for eletrical connection on your ground-straps...or ANY other electrical connection for that matter...and better than petroleum jelly... because Zinc Anti-Corrosive Paste prevents electrical problems by TWO mechanisms, chemical corrosion neutralising by Sacrificial Anode AND GAS-Tight-Joint....not just by keeping out moisture and keeping in contaminants and which most definately are there already (unless your car was built in a clean-room of perfectly clean parts). Read more about it here: http://www.intelab.com/swem/anti_corrosive_paste.htm....

Cheers

If the battery is in the stock location, you will have a threaded hoile in a convenient piece of chassis near the battery. This hole is for the end of the ground strap from the "-" post of the battery. I happen to prefer the heavy braided ground strap but some would rather have the black insulated cable (I dunno why).
You will also need to connect the engine to the chassis with a similar item.

I like to use a short piece of braided ground cable (the heavy version, not the toy-like thin stuff) that has holes for bolts on either end. I put one end under each nut of one motor mount (bridging the mounting rubber). Scrape off the paint first and slather with petroleum jelly before assembly.

Ditto (scrape and slather) for all connections. A battery mat under the battery will help reduce corrosion of the battery box and the little terminal donuts will reduce sulfate buildup on the terminals of the battery.

Don't cheap-out and get the clamp-on ends as they are a corrosion trap (the ends that clamp onto the cable). Instead, get tehm pre-made in the proper length or invest in a special crimper or torch for doing your own.

These cables and straps are available at nearly any decent parts store. NAPA is my favorite for this kinda stuff. Farm supply stores are also good but often have a lesser selection.

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Mike!

On my 142, I used a 240 ground cable. This has two wires coming off the battery terminal. One wire goes to the battery tray, the other goes to the block.

The original went only to the battery tray. I don't think that's good enough.
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'73 142, '75 242, '75 245, '80 245, '86 244, '87 745T