How about a 12 volt motor/fan to boost my non-turbo volvo. Has anyone done this? Sounds feasable. How do you manage the boost without issues in the combustion chambers? I read the Hot Rod magazine, at the super markket, it is being done through the muscle car aftermarket. No time to complete reading.
B...

There's a real one out there ... essentially, it's a few starter motors mounted to a supercharger for stand-alone operation. It runs at 36V, and is expensive.

Then there's the bilge fans that eBay sellers are marking up several folds and selling it to stupid morons. More an obstruction to the intake path, it actully is good for one thing - your mechanic. The plastic fan blades disintegrate and get sucked into your intake valves ... well, you can imagine the rest. :)

-- Kane
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While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any information and advice provided was at no cost to you.

Don't do it. It's a scam, the folks who sell this stuff on ebay have been nailed several times. If you really feel the need to do this, search Ebay, and you *will* find a few victims selling off thier kits for a few bucks.
It's an easy scam to bust. Swing by any online conversion site, convert the psi per cfm into watt hours. Divide by 12 volts, and you've got a heck of a lot more amperage than your car can provide. (not even accounting for inneficiencies!) You'd need a pack of traction batteries with a high amperage pwm controller tied to pressure management, (or just vent excess to the atmosphere) some heavy gauge to connect it up, and some fairly expensive single-use DC circuit breakers to break the current in case of emergency.
Or calculate the area of that fan in square inches, multiply by the claimed psi, then set that much weight on it and watch it crumple.
Or look at a turbocharger compressor wheel, observe the aggressive profiles and tight clearances to the overlapped fins; that airscrew turns 100,000+ rpms to maintain pressure. Compare to the kits.

well, a functional supercharger uses 20+% of engine power, so you need an electric motor with 20% of your stock horsepower rating driving your impeller to necessitate boost management, unless you have it driving a non positive displacement pump (ie.fan), in which case the lower efficiency will require an even larger motor. Weigh the 50KW alternator (probalbly a marine part, but maybe one from a semi or bus will do), and a 30 HP electric motor, add it together, and calculate how much boost you need to compensate for the weight, then consider how much you have saved by not buying the gear, and the weight you have shaved off your brick by not installing it, and you will be way ahead.

Consider this:
WHY WOULD YOU WANT BOOST AT IDLE?

Is that the 'bilge pump' supercharger? Stuff a hairdryer in your intake. Same thing. On the right car with a coffee can fart tube it could be good for 75 horses.
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Brian L., '90 244 198K, '01 S40 15K